熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段

熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段
熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route-Japan Travel-Omine Okushaki Trail-Tamaki Shrine Section

這座位於大峯奧駈道上的神祕聖地——玉置神社。玉置神社不僅是修驗道的重要靈場,更以其獨特的建築、古老的杉木群以及世界遺產的地位而聞名。

Located on the Omine Okudani Road, Tamaki Shrine is a mysterious shrine. Not only is it an important site for Shugendo, but it is also renowned for its unique architecture, ancient cedar trees, and its status as a World Heritage Site.



熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-地圖
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-地圖
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Omine Okuchi-michi - Map

大峯奧駈道(修驗道路線) : 對於專業的徒步者和修驗道修行者來說,玉置神社是大峯奧駈道南端的終點(或起點)。這條路線從吉野山一路延伸到熊野本宮大社,全長約170公里,需要數天的時間才能走完。

Omine Okudori Road (Shugendo Route): For experienced hikers and Shugendo practitioners, Tamaki Shrine marks the southern terminus (or starting point) of the Omine Okudori Road. This route stretches from Mount Yoshino to Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, covering approximately 170 kilometers and requiring several days to complete.



熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-海報
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-海報
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Omine Okuchi-michi - Poster

這條參拜道的特點包括:極具挑戰性,路線高低起伏大,充滿險峻路段,是對體力與意志力的極大考驗。具歷史與信仰意義,沿途會經過許多與修驗道相關的遺址、道場與石碑,讓徒步者能更深刻體驗修驗道文化的歷史厚重感。自然景觀豐富,沿途的原始山林景色壯麗,能欣賞到紀伊山地獨有的自然風光。


This pilgrimage route is characterized by its challenging terrain, steep ups and downs, and numerous steep sections, demanding both physical strength and willpower. With historical and religious significance, the route passes numerous Shugendo-related sites, dojos, and stone monuments, allowing hikers to deeply experience the rich historical heritage of Shugendo culture. The route is rich in natural scenery, with magnificent pristine mountain forests along the way, offering a unique glimpse into the natural beauty of the Kii Mountain Range.




熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置山下即是熊野川的上游
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置山下即是熊野川的上游
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Omine Okuchi-do - The foot of Mount Tamaoki is the upper reaches of the Kumano River

熊野川發源於奈良縣大台之原,流經和歌山縣與三重縣,最終在熊野灘匯入太平洋。它的總長約183公里,是紀伊半島上規模最大的河流之一。熊野川也以其清澈的河水和原始的自然風光聞名。由於流域內森林覆蓋率高,水質極佳,孕育了豐富的生態系統,是許多特有魚類和水生生物的棲息地。這條河流兩岸的景色更是壯觀,擁有許多懸崖峭壁、奇岩怪石和茂密的原始森林。特別是在新宮市附近,河川變得更加寬闊,兩岸景觀也更加開闊。這種未經開發的自然美景,讓搭乘觀光船的遊客能深刻感受到紀伊山地的原始魅力。


The Kumano River originates in Ōdai-no-hara in Nara Prefecture, flows through Wakayama and Mie prefectures, and finally empties into the Pacific Ocean at Kumano-nada. With a total length of approximately 183 kilometers, it is one of the largest rivers on the Kii Peninsula. The Kumano River is renowned for its clear waters and pristine natural scenery. The high forest coverage within its watershed ensures excellent water quality, fostering a rich ecosystem and providing habitat for numerous endemic fish and aquatic species. The scenery along the river is even more spectacular, featuring sheer cliffs, unusually shaped rocks, and dense primeval forests. Particularly near Shingu City, the river widens, offering a breathtaking view along its banks. This untouched natural beauty allows visitors aboard a sightseeing boat to deeply experience the untouched charm of the Kii Mountain Range.




Omine Okashi Road - Tamaki Shrine Torii
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社鳥居
Omine Okashi Road - Tamaki Shrine Torii

玉置神社坐落於海拔1,076公尺的玉置山山頂附近,被視為熊野三山(熊野本宮大社、熊野速玉大社、熊野那智大社)的熊野信仰的核心與源頭。這座神社的歷史可以追溯到西元前37年,相傳神武天皇東征時曾在此地休養生息,並祈求武運昌隆,其後將此地供奉為神。

Tamaki Shrine, nestled near the summit of Mount Tamaki at an elevation of 1,076 meters, is considered the core and source of Kumano faith, encompassing the three Kumano mountains (Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha). The shrine's history dates back to 37 BC, when Emperor Jimmu reportedly rested here during his eastern campaigns, praying for military success and subsequently deifying the site.




Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine Section
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine Section

對於大多數遊客來說,最便捷的方式是經由國道168號線轉入玉置山林道,直接開車或搭乘巴士抵達神社停車場。從停車場到神社主殿的參拜道相對平緩,步行時間約為15至20分鐘。這條路徑被古木參天的大樹所包圍,雖然路程不長,但依然能感受到莊嚴的氛圍。

For most visitors, the easiest way to reach the shrine is by taking National Route 168, turning onto the Tamakisan Forest Road and driving or taking a bus directly to the shrine parking lot. The approach from the parking lot to the main shrine is relatively flat, taking approximately 15 to 20 minutes. The path is surrounded by towering ancient trees, creating a sense of solemnity despite its short distance.




Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine Section
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine Section

大峯奧駈道的玉置神社在修驗道中扮演著關鍵角色。修驗道是一種結合了日本古老山岳信仰、佛教與道教的宗教,其修行者(山伏)會在險峻的山林中進行嚴苛的苦修。大峯奧駈道,這條長達170公里的修行路線,便是連結修驗道核心的吉野與熊野,而玉置神社正好位於這條路線的南端,是修驗者重要的道場之一。

Tamaki Shrine, located on the Ōmine Okudōmichi, plays a key role in Shugendo. Shugendo is a religion that combines ancient Japanese mountain worship with Buddhism and Taoism. Its practitioners, known as yamabushi, undertake rigorous training in rugged mountain forests. Located at the southern end of the Ōmine Okudōmichi, a 170-kilometer route connecting Yoshino and Kumano, the core regions of Shugendo, Tamaki Shrine is a key sanctuary for the Shugendo practitioners.




Omine Okudani-michi - Tamaki Shrine Section - Overlooking the Mountains
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-遠眺群山
Omine Okudani-michi - Tamaki Shrine Section - Overlooking the Mountains

阿弘走在這條林木蔥鬱的古道上,遠處的山巒層疊,山的顏色於黃昏時呈現出一種神秘淡藍色,好似有種神秘的力量再幫助誠心參拜的朝聖者。不知道為什麼這段路走起來都不累。

Hiro walked along this ancient, lushly forested path. The mountains in the distance rose in layers, their color fading into a mysterious pale blue at dusk, as if some mysterious power were aiding these sincere pilgrims. For some reason, this walk never felt tiring.




Omine Okudani-michi - Tamaki Shrine Section - Overlooking the Mountains
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine Section

這段山徑有許多日本信眾,也會前來健行參拜。如果自行開車到玉置神社的停車場,就可以輕鬆體驗這條杉木參天的參拜道。

This section of the trail is popular with Japanese pilgrims, who also hike and pay homage. If you drive to the Tamaki Shrine parking lot, you can easily experience this approach lined with towering cedar trees.



Omine Okubo Road - Tamaki Shrine - Owashi
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社-御洗手
Omine Okubo Road - Tamaki Shrine - Owashi

玉置神社前的御洗手,山泉水非常清澈又冷冽。將泉水到入手中,抹再額頭與臉頰,瞬間感受到清靜與寧靜的感覺,特別神奇。

The mountain spring water at the Gowashima in front of Tamaki Shrine is incredibly clear and cold. Pour the water into your hands and rub it across your forehead and cheeks for an instant sense of peace and tranquility. It's truly magical.



Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine

獨特的建築與文化財產 : 玉置神社的建築風格極具特色,主要由櫸木打造而成。其中,最引人注目的是被指定為日本國家重要文化財的社務所(書院建築)。這座建於1804年的建築,巧妙融合了書院與修驗道參籠所的風格,展現了修驗道團體獨有的建築樣式。社務所內部還有幕末時期狩野派畫師橘保春所繪製的精緻襖繪(隔扇畫),極具藝術價值。

Unique Architecture and Cultural Properties: Tamaki Shrine boasts a distinctive architectural style, primarily constructed from zelkova wood. A particular highlight is the shrine office (Shoin Building), designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Built in 1804, this building skillfully blends the styles of a shoin and a Shugendo sanrojo, showcasing the unique architectural style of the Shugendo community. Inside, the shrine office features exquisite fusuma-e (sliding screen paintings) by the late Edo period artist Tachibana Yasuharu of the Kano school, a work of immense artistic value.



Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine

世界遺產與特殊地位 : 玉置神社是「紀伊山地的聖地與參拜道」世界遺產的重要組成部分。其位於大峯奧駈道上的位置,不僅證明了它在修驗道歷史上的重要性,也讓它成為許多徒步旅行者與朝聖者的終點或中繼站。這種特殊的地理位置與歷史文化價值,使其成為一個融合自然、信仰與人文的獨特存在。

World Heritage and Special Status: Tamaki-jinja Shrine is a key component of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range" World Heritage Site. Its location on the Ōmine Okudō Dori (Omine Okudō Michi) not only demonstrates its importance in the history of Shugendo, but also serves as a destination or transit point for many hikers and pilgrims. This unique location and historical and cultural significance make it a unique site that blends nature, faith, and humanity.




熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社
熊野古道朝聖之路-大峯奧駈道-玉置神社
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route – Omine Okushaki Trail – Tamaki Shrine

若宮社 : 玉置神社旁的若宮社主祀的是住吉大神、八幡大神和春日大神三位神祇。若宮社原本是為了供奉天照大神而設立的,但到了明治六年(1873年),天照大神被合祀到本社的右殿後,才改為供奉這三位神祇。


Wakamiya Shrine: Located next to Tamaki Shrine, Wakamiya Shrine primarily enshrines Sumiyoshi Okami, Hachiman Okami, and Kasuga Okami. Originally established to enshrine Amaterasu Omikami, the shrine switched to these three deities in 1873, after Amaterasu was relocated to the main shrine's right hall.


神武社 : 玉置神社旁的神武社,主祀的是迦具土神、速玉男神和高倉下神。神武社原本是供奉日本第一代天皇「神武天皇」(神日本磐余彦尊),但與若宮社一樣,在明治時期進行神祇合祀後,神武天皇被合祀至本社,後來才改為供奉這三位神祇。


Jinmu Shrine: Located next to Tamaoki Shrine, Jinmu Shrine's main deities are Kagutsuchi, Hayatama, and Takakura. Originally dedicated to Emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan, like Wakamiya Shrine, the shrine was re-enshrined in the Meiji era, with Emperor Jimmu incorporated into the main shrine. Later, the shrine was re-enshrined with these three deities.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社-神代杉
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社-神代杉
Omine Okubo Road - Tamaki Shrine - Jindaisugi

靈氣逼人的「神代杉」巨木群 : 神社境內被古老杉樹林環繞,這些杉木被統稱為「玉置神社杉木巨樹群」,其中許多樹齡超過三千年,被視為神的化身。漫步在參道上,這些高聳入雲的巨木帶來一種莊嚴且神祕的氛圍,特別是其中一棵樹齡據說長達三千年的「神代杉」,更是玉置神社的象徵。

The majestic "Kamiyo Sugi" trees: The shrine grounds are surrounded by a forest of ancient cedar trees, collectively known as the "Tamaaki-jinja Sugi Giant Trees." Many are over 3,000 years old and are considered incarnations of the gods. Strolling along the shrine's approach, these towering trees create a solemn and mysterious atmosphere. One particular tree, the "Kamiyo Sugi," is particularly noteworthy, being said to be 3,000 years old and a symbol of Tamaki-jinja Shrine.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社-稻荷社
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社-稻荷社
Omine Okubei Road - Tamaki Shrine - Inari Shrine

玉置神社的稻荷社主祀的是 : 宇迦之御魂大神(うかのみたまのおおかみ)。宇迦之御魂大神是日本神話中的穀物與食物之神,也是稻荷神社系統中最重要的神祇。祂被視為保佑五穀豐收、生意興隆、家庭平安的神明。在玉置神社,稻荷社被設在較高的山坡上,顯示其在信仰上的重要地位。


The Inari shrine at Tamaki Jinja Shrine is dedicated to Uka no Mitama-Okami. Uka no Mitama-Okami is the god of grain and food in Japanese mythology and the most important deity in the Inari shrine system. He is regarded as the deity that protects bountiful harvests, prosperous business, and safe families. At Tamaki Jinja Shrine, the Inari shrine is located on a higher slope, reflecting its significant religious importance.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社參拜道
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社參拜道
Omine Okubei Road - Tamaki Shrine Section - Tamashii Shrine Pilgrimage Route

玉石社: 參拜完主殿後,可以繼續往上走到玉置山山頂附近的「玉石社」。這裡沒有社殿,只有一顆巨大的玉石,據說神武天皇曾將玉石放置於此。許多修驗者習慣在參拜主殿前,先到玉石社禮拜,被認為是玉置神社的起源。

Tamaeshi Shrine: After visiting the main shrine, continue up to the Tamaeshi Shrine near the summit of Mount Tamaki. Instead of a shrine hall, there's a large jade stone, said to have been placed there by Emperor Jimmu. Many shugensha practitioners worship at the Tamaeshi Shrine before visiting the main shrine, and it's considered the origin of Tamaki Shrine.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社參拜道
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社參拜道
Omine Okubei Road - Tamaki Shrine Section - Tamashii Shrine Pilgrimage Route

日本政府採用手作步道的方式來整理熊野古道,以木頭來擋土石,以碎石來當舖面。不僅透水性極佳,又具生態與古樸的景觀價值。值得台灣政府學習參考。

The Japanese government has adopted a handcrafted approach to the Kumano Kodo Trail, using wood as retaining blocks and gravel as paving. This approach is not only highly permeable but also offers ecological and quaint landscape value. This is a valuable example for the Taiwanese government to learn from.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社參拜道
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社參拜道
Omine Okubei Road - Tamaki Shrine Section - Tamashii Shrine Pilgrimage Route

古道中的建設,最大程度保留了大量自然素材,以自然棉繩來當扶手。
The construction of the ancient road has retained a large amount of natural materials to the greatest extent possible, using natural cotton ropes as handrails.




Omine Okashi Trail - Tamaki Shrine section - Tamashiki Shrine
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-玉石社
Omine Okashi Trail - Tamaki Shrine section - Tamashiki Shrine

玉石社: 參拜完主殿後,可以繼續往上走到玉置山山頂附近的「玉石社」。這裡沒有社殿,只有一顆巨大的玉石,據說神武天皇曾將玉石放置於此。許多修驗者習慣在參拜主殿前,先到玉石社禮拜,被認為是玉置神社的起源。

Tamaeshi Shrine: After visiting the main shrine, continue up to the Tamaeshi Shrine near the summit of Mount Tamaki. Instead of a shrine hall, there's a large jade stone, said to have been placed there by Emperor Jimmu. Many shugensha practitioners worship at the Tamaeshi Shrine before visiting the main shrine, and it's considered the origin of Tamaki Shrine.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-遠眺山中村落
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-遠眺山中村落
Omine Okubo Trail - Tamaki Shrine section - overlooking the village in the mountains

這段古道如遇開闊處,可以遠眺山下許多村落。
If you come across an open area on this ancient road, you can overlook many villages at the foot of the mountain.




大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-遠眺群山
大峯奧駈道-玉置神社段-遠眺群山
Omine Okudani-michi - Tamaki Shrine Section - Overlooking the Mountains

玉置神社不僅是日本少數能開車抵達的世界遺產,同時也保留了最原始、最具挑戰性的修驗道參拜道。無論是輕鬆漫步的遊客,還是尋求心靈洗滌的修行者,都能在這座神祕而莊嚴的山間聖地,找到屬於自己的參拜方式。

Tamaki Shrine is not only one of the few World Heritage Sites in Japan accessible by car, but it also preserves the most pristine and challenging Shugendo pilgrimage route. Whether you're just a leisurely stroller or a practitioner seeking spiritual enlightenment, everyone can find their own unique way to visit this mysterious and solemn mountain sanctuary.




 
阿弘的世界足跡

圖/文 : 阿弘

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