熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-中邊路-本宮大社段

熊野古道朝聖之路-中邊路-本宮大社段-大齋原

Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Section - Osaigahara

大齋原（Ōyono-hara）是熊野本宮大社的舊址，位於熊野川、音無川與岩田川匯流形成的中洲沙地，是熊野古道中一個極具文化與精神意義的地點。這裡曾是熊野信仰的中心，也是熊野三山的核心。雖然1889年的那場大洪水摧毀了大部分社殿，迫使神社遷往現址，但大齋原作為熊野信仰的發源地，其文化與生態價值依然不容忽視。

Ōyono-hara, the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, lies on the Nakasu Sands, formed by the confluence of the Kumano, Otonashi, and Iwata Rivers. It is a site of immense cultural and spiritual significance along the Kumano Kodo Trail. It was once the center of Kumano faith and the core of the Kumano Sanzan. Although a devastating flood in 1889 destroyed much of the shrine's grounds and forced the shrine to relocate to its current location, Ōyono-hara remains a significant cultural and ecological site, serving as the birthplace of Kumano faith.

 

熊野古道朝聖之路-中邊路位置圖

Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Central Road Location Map

中邊路起點入口 是從田邊市 向東進入紀伊山地，參拜熊野本宮大社、熊野速玉大社、熊野那智大社的參拜路線。從平安時代到鎌倉時代，歷代上皇・貴族們會進行為期數十天的出巡參拜，熊野三山參拜的「熊野御幸」，都以中邊路做為正式的參拜路線。

The Nakabe Road entrance is the starting point for the pilgrimage route that leads east from Tanabe City into the Kii Mountain Range to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. From the Heian to the Kamakura period, retired emperors and nobles would undertake a multi-day pilgrimage to the Kumano Three Mountains, known as the "Kumano Miyuki," which commemorated the Kumano Three Mountains. This route served as the official pilgrimage route.

熊野古道-中邊路-地圖

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Map

沿途有被統稱為九十九王子的神社群遺址，據說出巡的上皇・貴族們在御幸的途中，會選擇在各個王子神社稍做歇息、吟詠和歌。當時的參拜者能感受到更深層的宗教儀式感，也成為了沿途重要的文化遺跡。

Along the route, you'll find ruins of a cluster of shrines collectively known as the Kujuku Oji. It's said that retired emperors and nobles would stop at each shrine to rest and recite waka poetry during their tours. This allowed visitors to experience a deeper sense of religious ritual, and the shrines have become important cultural relics along the route.

熊野古道朝聖之路-中邊路-本宮大社段

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine Section

中邊路是熊野古道系統中最核心、也是參拜者使用頻率最高的路線，其地位如同朝聖之路上的「主幹道」。它連接了熊野三山（本宮大社、那智大社、速玉大社）並可透過小邊路連接高野山，中邊路全長約40公里，是從京都或大阪出發的參拜者最常走的路線。這條路徑不僅是地理上的連結，更是熊野信仰文化傳播的動脈。

The Nakabe Road is the central and most frequently used route in the Kumano Kodo system, serving as a kind of "main road" for pilgrims. It connects the Kumano Three Mountains (Hongu Taisha, Nachi Taisha, and Hayatama Taisha) and, via smaller side roads, connects to Mount Koya. The Nakabe Road, approximately 40 kilometers long, is the most common route for pilgrims departing from Kyoto or Osaka. This route serves not only as a geographical link but also as an artery for the spread of Kumano's religious culture.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社段-石砌路面

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Section - Stone Pavement

熊野古道上的石砌路面，是連結熊野三山的重要古道特色之一，承載著千年參詣歷史。這些石道多建於平安至江戶時代，為了讓朝聖者、僧侶與旅人能在雨雪與濕滑的山路上安全行走，當地匠人依山勢鋪設大小不一的天然石塊。工法講究就地取材，選擇堅硬的花崗岩或河石，以不規則拼接方式緊密相扣，部分路段還設有排水坡度與中央排水溝，減少積水與侵蝕。石面經長年踩踏，被磨得光滑圓潤，有些甚至留有馬蹄與木屐的痕跡。不同地段會因地形與用途而有差異，例如山坡採階梯狀、平地則鋪平整石板。石砌路面不僅是實用的交通設施，也反映了當地居民與自然共生的智慧與工藝。如今，許多石道已被列為重要文化遺產，行走其上，不僅能感受古代匠人的用心，還能體會朝聖者一步一履的虔誠與時代變遷的足跡。

The stone pavement of the Kumano Kodo Trail is a key feature of the ancient route connecting the three mountains of Kumano, carrying a millennium of pilgrimage history. These stone paths, mostly constructed between the Heian and Edo periods, were laid out to ensure safe travel for pilgrims, monks, and travelers in rain, snow, and slippery conditions. Local craftsmen laid natural stones of varying sizes according to the terrain's contours. Crafted with locally sourced materials, they chose hard granite or river rocks, interlocking them in an irregular pattern. Some sections also feature drainage slopes and central drains to minimize water accumulation and erosion. Years of footfall have honed the stone surfaces to a smooth, rounded surface, some even bearing the marks of horses' hooves and wooden clogs. The stone pavement varies depending on the terrain and intended use, with hillsides typically featuring stepped terraces and flat slabs of stone on flat land. Stone pavement is not only a practical means of transportation but also reflects the wisdom and craftsmanship of the local people, who coexisted with nature. Today, many stone roads have been listed as important cultural heritage. Walking on them, you can not only feel the ingenuity of the ancient craftsmen, but also experience the piety of the pilgrims' every step and the footprints of the changing times.

工法介紹 : 許多石板路的鋪設並非使用水泥或其他黏合劑，而是採用傳統的「空積み」（kumi-zumi）技術。這種工法主要透過石塊之間緊密的咬合與堆疊，形成穩固的結構。這種技術不僅環保，也方便雨水滲入地下，維持山林的自然水循環。

Construction Method: Many stone paving paths are laid not with cement or other adhesives, but rather using the traditional kumi-zumi technique. This method relies on tightly interlocking and stacking stones to create a stable structure. This technique is not only environmentally friendly but also allows rainwater to seep into the ground, maintaining the natural water cycle of the mountain forest.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社段-里程碑

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Section - Milestone

熊野古道上的木製哩程碑，是過往朝聖道路上重要的指引與紀錄設施。早期為了讓參詣者掌握行程距離，沿途會設立以木材製作的標柱，通常選用耐久性高的檜木或杉木，防潮抗腐。哩程碑上刻有到熊野本宮大社或其他重要地點的距離，單位多以「里」或「町」表示，並附上地名，部分還刻有捐贈者或建造年份，反映當時的社會參與與信仰風氣。設置位置多在路口、岔道或重要地標旁，方便旅人辨識方向與估算時間。由於熊野古道穿越山林與村落，木頭哩程碑也常與周邊景觀融合，成為自然與人文相依的象徵。隨著年代久遠，不少原物已因風雨侵蝕而更換，但仍有部分經修復後保留原貌。今日行走熊野古道，看到這些木製哩程碑，不僅是導航，更像是與古代朝聖者的對話，感受那段信仰與旅程交織的歷史痕跡。

Wooden mileposts along the Kumano Kodo Trail served as crucial guideposts and record-keeping devices for pilgrims. In the early days, wooden markers were erected along the route to help pilgrims track their distances. These were typically constructed of durable cypress or cedar, which are moisture-resistant and rot-resistant. These markers inscribed the distance to Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine or other significant locations, often expressed in "ri" or "cho," along with the place name. Some also included the donor and the year of construction, reflecting the social participation and religious traditions of the time. They were often located at intersections, forks, or landmarks, facilitating direction and time estimation. As the Kumano Kodo Trail traverses mountainous terrain and villages, wooden mileposts often blend seamlessly into the surrounding landscape, becoming symbols of the intertwining nature and human experience. Over time, many of the original markers have been replaced by weather and weather, but some have been restored to their original beauty. Today, traversing the Kumano Kodo Trail, encountering these wooden mileposts serves not only as a guide but also as a conversation with ancient pilgrims, allowing us to experience the historical legacy of the intertwined faith and journey.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社段-水孔蓋

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Section - Water Hole Cover

熊野古道沿線的特色人孔蓋，是當地將實用設施與文化形象結合的創意表現。這些鑄鐵人孔蓋多以彩繪或浮雕方式，呈現熊野三山、八咫烏、古道石板路、山林溪谷等意象，讓旅人一眼就能感受熊野古道的信仰氛圍。由於熊野古道被列為世界文化遺產，這些人孔蓋也承載了地方的文化宣傳功能，成為拍照打卡的熱門元素。一些蓋面還會標註所在城鎮名稱與圖案來源，方便遊客理解背後故事。行走熊野古道時，低頭望見這些精緻的人孔蓋，就像在旅途中與土地的文化符號不期而遇，增添探索古道的趣味與細節。

The distinctive manhole covers along the Kumano Kodo Trail are a creative expression of the region's integration of practical amenities and cultural imagery. These cast iron covers, often painted or embossed, depict images of the Kumano Sanzan, Yatagarasu, the ancient trail's stone pavement, and mountain, forest, and valley. This allows travelers to instantly immerse themselves in the spiritual atmosphere of the Kumano Kodo Trail. As a World Heritage Site, these manhole covers also serve as a cultural reminder of the region, becoming popular photo spots. Some cover covers also feature the name of the town where they are located and the origin of the design, making it easier for visitors to understand the story behind them. Glancing down at these intricate manhole covers while walking along the Kumano Kodo Trail is like encountering the cultural symbols of the land, adding to the fun and detail of exploring the trail.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社段-野狼博物館

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Section - Wolf Museum

熊野古道上的野狼博物館（紀州狼・大狼傳說館），位於和歌山縣本宮町，是專門介紹日本野狼（ニホンオオカミ）與熊野信仰關係的特色館舍。日本野狼曾廣泛分布於本州山區，熊野地區更將牠視為山之守護神與旅人的保護者，並在熊野權現信仰中以「大口真神」崇拜。館內展示野狼的生態資料、剝製標本、歷史照片與相關民間傳說，並解說牠們在江戶時代防鹿防獅害的角色，以及明治期滅絕的原因。特別的是，這裡也介紹了野狼在熊野古道沿線的神社與石碑上的形象，如狛犬般守護神域的「狼像」。參觀者可透過影片與模型，感受昔日野狼在山林中奔走的姿態。野狼博物館不僅是自然生態教育場所，更是理解熊野古道文化層次的重要據點，讓人從野狼的故事中，體會人與自然、信仰的深厚連結。

The Kumano Kotsugi Wolf Museum (Kishu Wolf and Great Wolf Legend Museum), located in Hongu-cho, Wakayama Prefecture, is a unique museum dedicated to the relationship between the Japanese wolf (Nihonokami) and Kumano faith. The Japanese wolf was once widespread in the mountainous areas of Honshu. The Kumano region revered it as a guardian deity of the mountains and protector of travelers, and worshipped it as "Oguchi Shinjin" in Kumano Gongen faith. The museum displays information on wolf ecology, taxidermy specimens, historical photographs, and related folklore. It also explains the wolf's role in protecting against deer and lions during the Edo period and the cause of its extinction during the Meiji period. Notably, the museum also showcases the wolf's depiction on shrines and stone monuments along the Kumano Kotsugi Trail, depicting the "wolf statues" that served as guardian deities, like Komainu. Visitors can experience the wolves of yesteryear as they roamed the mountains and forests through videos and models. The Wild Wolf Museum is not only a place for natural ecology education, but also an important base for understanding the cultural level of the Kumano Kodo. Through the stories of the wild wolves, people can experience the deep connection between humans, nature, and faith.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-後門鳥居

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Back Gate Torii

我們從三軒茶屋往本宮大社的中邊路段，中途會遇見祓殿王子跡和本宮大社的後門鳥居，鳥居上有 八咫烏 的圖騰。

On the middle section of the road from Sangenjaya to Hongu Taisha Shrine, we will encounter the ruins of the Purudonoji and the torii gate at the back gate of Hongu Taisha Shrine, which has the totem of the Yatagarasu.

八咫烏究竟是怎樣的神祇？在日本神話中，八咫烏是一隻三足烏鴉，相傳曾引導神武天皇從熊野國（今和歌山縣和三重縣）前往大和國（今奈良縣）。八咫烏是天照大神等眾神的信使，因指引神武天皇而被尊崇為“指引之神”，也被認為是太陽的化身。「八咫烏」這個名字據說源自於古代長度單位「ata」（約18公分），指的是烏鴉的體長為「yatagarasu」（約144公分）。此外，“yatagarasu”中的“八”表示“許多”，所以也有人說它是“大烏鴉”的意思。

What kind of deity is Yatagarasu? In Japanese mythology, Yatagarasu is a three-legged crow that is said to have guided Emperor Jimmu from Kumano Province (present-day Wakayama and Mie Prefectures) to Yamato Province (present-day Nara Prefecture). Yatagarasu is the messenger of the gods, including Amaterasu. Because of its guidance of Emperor Jimmu, it is revered as the "God of Guidance" and is also considered the embodiment of the sun. The name "Yatagarasu" is said to derive from the ancient unit of length "ata" (approximately 18 centimeters), referring to the crow's length, "yatagarasu" (approximately 144 centimeters). Furthermore, the "eight" in "yatagarasu" means "many," leading some to believe it means "large crow."

鳥居上的八咫烏圖騰

Yatagarasu totem on the torii

日本有很多關於八咫烏的傳說。這裡我們將介紹兩個代表性的故事。第一個故事最為著名，也最為人所知。很久以前，神武天皇居住在日向國（今宮崎縣）的高千穗。但他想在東方建都，統領天下，於是與弟弟伊小伊勢尊一同前往大和國。然而，在東征途中，他們遭到了大和國強者長根彥的襲擊，伊小伊勢尊中箭身亡。身負重傷的伊小伊勢尊說：「我之所以被射中，是因為我身為太陽神的後裔，卻面對著太陽（東方）作戰。而我要背著太陽（西方）作戰。」神武天皇的軍隊繞過紀伊半島向南進發，但伊小伊勢尊在紀國（今和歌山縣）陣亡。最後抵達熊野村後，他們遭遇了一隻大熊。熊的毒氣令一行人失去了意識。然而，一位神明目睹了他們的行徑，拯救了他們。熊野的居民高倉寺得到神諭，趕赴現場，將劍呈獻給神武天皇。劍瞬間殺死了熊，喚醒了包括神武天皇在內的眾人。躲避熊的追捕，翻越幾座大山後，神武天皇迷路了，陷入了困境。他夢見高結守告訴他：「從這裡往前走，有許多凶神惡煞的神明。我將派八咫烏來，你跟我走吧。」醒來後，八咫烏出現了，他按照八咫烏的指示，安全抵達了大和國。日本第一部天皇欽定的歷史《日本書紀》也記載了神武天皇在熊野山中迷路時，天照大神派八咫烏來指引他。

There are many legends about the Yatagarasu in Japan. Here, we will introduce two representative stories. The first is the most famous and well-known. Long ago, Emperor Jimmu lived in Takachiho, Hyuga Province (present-day Miyazaki Prefecture). However, he wanted to establish his capital in the east and rule the world, so he and his younger brother, Isemori, journeyed to Yamato Province. However, during their eastern expedition, they were attacked by the powerful Yamato general Naganehiko, and Isemori was shot and killed. The severely wounded Isemori said, "I was shot because I, a descendant of the sun god, am fighting facing the sun (east). I will fight with the sun on my back (west)." Emperor Jimmu's army bypassed the Kii Peninsula and marched south, but Isemori was killed in Ki Province (present-day Wakayama Prefecture). Finally, upon reaching Kumano Village, they encountered a giant bear. The bear's poisonous gas knocked the group unconscious. However, a deity witnessed their actions and saved them. Takakura-dera, a resident of Kumano, received an oracle and rushed to the scene, presenting the sword to Emperor Jimmu. The sword instantly killed the bear, awakening everyone, including Emperor Jimmu. After evading the bear and crossing several mountains, Emperor Jimmu lost his way and fell into a difficult situation. He dreamed that Takamune told him, "From here on, there are many fierce gods. I will send the Yatagarasu. Follow her." Upon waking, the Yatagarasu appeared, and he followed her instructions and safely arrived in Yamato. The Nihonshoki, Japan's first imperial history, also records that when Emperor Jimmu lost his way in the mountains of Kumano, Amaterasu sent the Yatagarasu to guide him.

第二則故事說 : 在遠古時代，一位名叫千代兼的獵人在熊野山狩獵時，因傷勢過重而迷失了方向，失去了對一頭野豬的蹤影。突然，一隻八咫烏憑空出現在他面前，靜靜地在他前方行走。他心生疑惑，決定追尋八咫烏的蹤跡。走了一會兒後，八咫烏消失了。他疑惑不解地抬頭仰望天空，發現前方大樹上閃耀著光芒。千代兼警戒地用箭指向光芒，命令光芒現身。光芒化作三面鏡子，說：「我們是熊野的神。」千代兼急忙丟下弓箭，道歉，並在大樹下建造了三座庵。然後他說：「如果您真的是神，請您入住其中一座庵。」於是，三面鏡子便入住了三座庵。後來，千代兼奉天皇旨意，成為熊野三山（熊野岩井神社、熊野那智大社、熊野速玉神社）的守護者。

The second story tells of a hunter named Chiyokan, who, in ancient times, was hunting in Mount Kumano, when he became disoriented due to a serious injury and lost track of a wild boar. Suddenly, a Yatagarasu appeared out of nowhere and quietly walked ahead of him. Puzzled, Chiyokan decided to follow the Yatagarasu's trail. After walking for a while, the Yatagarasu disappeared. Confused, he looked up at the sky and saw a gleaming light glimmering from a large tree ahead. Cautiously, Chiyokan pointed his arrow at the light, commanding it to appear. The light manifested as three mirrors, which declared, "We are the gods of Kumano." Chiyokan hurriedly dropped his bow and arrow, apologized, and built three temples beneath the trees. He then said, "If you are truly a god, please reside in one of these temples." The three mirrors then took up residence in the temples. Later, by imperial decree, Chiyokan became the guardian of the Three Mountains of Kumano (Kumano Iwai Shrine, Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, and Kumano Hayatama Shrine).

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社石碑

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine Stone Monument

我們走到熊野本宮大社的正門參拜道入口，看見了熊野本宮大社的石碑，石碑上的書法字跡蒼勁渾厚，應是一位書法大家所提的字樣。

We walked to the main entrance of Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine and saw the stone tablet of Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine. The calligraphy on the stone tablet was vigorous and thick, and it should have been written by a great calligrapher.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-參拜道

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Pilgrimage Route

參拜道依山勢鋪設，多為石疊路面（石畳），選用當地花崗岩或河石，經長年踏磨而圓潤光滑。路面保留微傾斜與排水縫隙，以適應多雨潮濕的紀伊山地氣候。沿途配置杉木林蔭與低矮石燈籠，使空間光線由明轉暗，再漸入開闊的社域，強化心境的轉換感。

The approach to the shrine follows the mountain's contours, primarily featuring stone-stacked pavement (shikigai). Made from local granite or river stones, the pavement has been honed to a smooth, rounded surface through years of wear and tear. A slight slope and drainage gaps are incorporated to accommodate the humid and rainy climate of the Kii Mountains. Along the way, cedar trees and low stone lanterns create a transition from bright to dark, then into the open community area, heightening the sense of transition.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-參拜道

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Pilgrimage Route

參拜道的坡度與階梯數量，與熊野信仰中的淨化儀軌相呼應——逐級上行代表脫離塵世，接近神域。途中設有手水舍、鳥居等節點，形成「段階式聖化」（Gradual Sanctification）的動線。石面間苔蘚蔓生、落葉堆積，象徵生命循環與自然無常，這與熊野信仰中接受死與再生的思想一致。

The slope and number of steps along the approach echo the purification rituals of Kumano faith—ascending step by step represents detachment from the mundane world and approaching the divine realm. Along the way, points such as hand-water pavilions and torii gates are located, forming a path of "gradual sanctification." Moss and fallen leaves growing on the stone surfaces symbolize the cycle of life and the impermanence of nature, aligning with the Kumano faith's acceptance of death and rebirth.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-手水舍(御洗手)

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Gowashei

手水舍的材質與工藝 : 水槽多以整塊花崗岩或伊賀石鑿成，邊緣略作弧形倒角，防止水花四濺並方便竹杓擱置。支撐柱與屋架選用熊野山地的檜木或杉木，經耐候處理但不施彩繪，以呼應本宮大社的素木風格。屋脊與斗栱工法簡練，雕飾僅見少量雲紋或植物紋，展現質樸的熊野美學。

Materials and Craftsmanship of the Temizuya: The troughs are often chiseled from a single block of granite or Iga stone, with slightly chamfered edges to prevent splashing and provide a convenient resting place for bamboo ladles. Supporting columns and roof frames are constructed from cypress or cedar from the Kumano Mountains, treated for weather resistance but unpainted to echo the plain wood style of the Hongu Taisha Shrine. The ridges and brackets are constructed with minimal craftsmanship, featuring minimal carvings of cloud or plant motifs, embodying the rustic Kumano aesthetic.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社大門

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine Gate

本宮大社的歷史與建築演變 : 熊野本宮大社原位於「大齋原」，屬熊野三山之首。明治22年（1889）洪水沖毀大部分社殿，僅幸存的四座主要社殿被移至現址。其建築保留日本神社傳統形式，同時融合熊野信仰獨特的象徵符號，如「八咫烏」紋飾與素樸色調。

     

History and Architectural Evolution of Hongu Taisha: Kumano Hongu Taisha, originally located at Osaigahara, was considered the first of the Kumano Three Mountains. In 1889, a flood destroyed most of the shrine's main buildings, and the four remaining main buildings were relocated to the current site. While retaining traditional Japanese Shinto shrine forms, the shrine incorporates unique Kumano symbols, such as the Yatagarasu crest and a simple color palette.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-拜殿（黎明殿）

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Hall of Worship (Ayaneden)

神社的材質與工藝 : 全社殿以檜木為主要材質，未施彩繪，呈現木材的天然色澤與歲月風化的銀灰色，呼應熊野信仰中「素樸、靜謐」的精神。檜皮葺屋頂需以熟練工匠層層重疊樹皮，具有良好排水與耐候性。雕刻部分多為簡練的植物、雲氣與神獸紋，避免過度華麗，強調與自然共生。

Materials and Craftsmanship of the Shrine: The entire shrine hall is primarily constructed of unpainted cypress wood, showcasing its natural color and weathered silver-gray hue, echoing the "simplicity and tranquility" of Kumano faith. The cypress bark thatching, which requires skilled craftsmen to layer the bark layer by layer, provides excellent drainage and weather resistance. The carvings primarily feature simple plant, cloud, and mythical animal motifs, avoiding excessive ornateness and emphasizing a symbiosis with nature.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-正殿

Kumano Kodo - Middle Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Main Hall

社殿形式與屋頂構造 : 社殿採「權現造」（Gongen-zukuri），即兩座相連、前後配置的建築組合，中間以「相之間」連接，象徵神佛習合時期的融合性。屋頂為切妻造（Kirizuma-zukuri）搭配檜皮葺（Hinoki-bark roofing），屋脊裝飾「千木」（Chigi）與「鰹木」（Katsuogi），其傾斜角度與數量對應神祇的性質。

Shrine Form and Roof Structure: The shrine adopts Gongen-zukuri (Gongen-zukuri) architecture, a combination of two connected buildings arranged front and back, connected by a "sei-no-ma" (a traditional Chinese abbreviation), symbolizing the integration of Shinto and Buddhism during the period of integration. The roof is Kirizuma-zukuri (Kirizuma-zukuri) with hinoki-bark thatching. The ridge is decorated with chigi and katsuogi, the angle and number of which correspond to the nature of the deity.

熊野古道-中邊路-本宮大社-參拜道

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Hongu Taisha Shrine - Pilgrimage Route

走在參拜道上，腳感由鬆軟泥徑轉為堅實石路，聽覺由林中鳥鳴轉為祭典鼓樂與人聲，嗅覺由土木香轉為檜木香氣與供奉的清酒香，形成多感官的漸層體驗。這條路不僅是物理距離的縮短，更是精神專注與內心平靜的培養過程，讓到達本宮時的參拜具有強烈的儀式感與完成感。

Walking along the approach path, the feel of your feet changes from soft mud to firm stone, your ears shift from forest birdsong to the sounds of ritual drums and human voices, and your sense of smell shifts from the aroma of earth to the fragrance of cypress and the aroma of sake offered, creating a multi-sensory experience. This path not only shortens physical distance but also cultivates mental focus and inner peace, giving the visit to the main shrine a strong sense of ritual and completion.

熊野古道-中邊路-大齋原-本宮大社舊址鳥居

Kumano Kodo - Nakabe Road - Osaigahara - Hongu Taisha Shrine Torii

巨型鳥居的象徵意義 : 大齋原最醒目的地標是矗立於入口處、高達33.9公尺的日本第一大鳥居。這個鳥居於2000年落成，不僅是為了紀念熊野古道被列入世界遺產，更象徵著對舊址的緬懷與信仰的傳承。它如同一扇大門，引領著參拜者進入這片充滿歷史與神聖感的土地，也提醒著人們熊野本宮大社的舊址所在。

The symbolic significance of the giant torii: Ōsaigahara's most striking landmark is Japan's largest torii, standing at 33.9 meters tall. Completed in 2000, this torii not only commemorates the inscription of the Kumano Kodo as a World Heritage Site but also symbolizes the remembrance of the site and the continuation of faith. Like a gateway, it leads worshippers into this historic and sacred ground, and serves as a reminder of the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine.

大齋原-本宮大社舊址鳥居-海報

Osaigahara-Hongu Taisha Shrine Torii Poster

神聖的發源地與信仰的核心 : 大齋原在熊野信仰中扮演著至關重要的角色。據說神明最先降臨此地，因此這裡被視為神聖的「聖地」。參拜者在進入大齋原前，必須先在熊野川淨身，完成稱為「水垢離」的淨化儀式，才能進入。這項傳統儀式凸顯了大齋原在熊野信仰中的崇高地位。儘管社殿已不復存在，但這片土地的靈性氛圍依然濃厚，每年都有許多信徒前來緬懷與參拜。

A sacred birthplace and a core of faith: Osaigahara plays a crucial role in Kumano faith. It is believed to be the first place where the gods descended, making it considered a sacred site. Before entering, worshippers must first purify themselves in the Kumano River, completing a purification ritual known as "sui ke ri." This traditional ritual underscores Osaigahara's high status in Kumano faith. Although the main shrine no longer exists, the grounds retain a strong spiritual atmosphere, attracting many devotees each year to pay homage and worship.

大齋原-本宮大社舊址鳥居-世界遺產紀念碑

Osaigahara-Hongu Taisha Shrine Torii-World Heritage Monument

鳥居旁立有「世界遺產紀念碑」，標示此地作為「紀伊山地靈場與參詣道」的一部分，已於2004年登錄為聯合國教科文組織世界文化遺產。此地四季景色各異，春有櫻花、夏有翠綠、秋賞紅葉、冬覽雪景，是熊野信仰與歷史文化的重要象徵。

A World Heritage Monument stands beside the torii gate, marking this site as part of the "Kii Mountain Range Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes," registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. The scenery here changes with each season: cherry blossoms in spring, verdant greenery in summer, crimson leaves in autumn, and snowy landscapes in winter. It is a vital symbol of Kumano's religious beliefs and history.

熊野古道-大齋原-本宮大社舊址

Kumano Kodo - Osaigahara - Hongu Taisha Shrine Site

見證歷史的社殿遺址 : 1889年大洪水後，倖存下來的四座社殿被遷移到約500公尺遠的現址。如今，在大齋原僅存兩座石砌的社殿遺址，分別是上四社和中下社。這些遺址見證了熊野本宮大社在歷史上所經歷的巨大變革。透過這些遺址，人們可以想像昔日莊嚴的社殿群、參拜道、以及祭祀活動的盛況。

Shrine ruins bear witness to history: After the great flood of 1889, the four surviving shrines were relocated to their current location, approximately 500 meters away. Today, only two stone shrine ruins remain in Daisaigahara: the Upper Shrine and the Middle Shrine. These ruins bear witness to the profound changes that Kumano Hongu Taisha has undergone throughout its history. Through these ruins, one can imagine the majestic shrine complex, the approach to the shrine, and the grandeur of its rituals.

熊野古道-大齋原-本宮大社舊址

Kumano Kodo - Osaigahara - Hongu Taisha Shrine Site

河岸中洲的特殊生態 : 大齋原位於河流中洲，特殊的地理位置使其擁有多樣化的生態環境。儘管洪水威脅曾帶來破壞，但也造就了這裡獨特的河岸植被。這片沙地與周圍的森林生態系統形成了鮮明對比，為許多耐水性強的植物和動物提供了棲息地。

Unique Riverbank Ecology: Ōsaihara's unique location, nestled on a riverbank, fosters a diverse ecosystem. While the threat of flooding has historically caused damage, it has also fostered a unique riverbank vegetation. This sandy area contrasts sharply with the surrounding forest ecosystem, providing a habitat for many water-tolerant plants and animals.

自然與信仰的共存 : 這片土地的生態景觀與熊野信仰有著密不可分的關係。在熊野信仰中，自然萬物皆有靈性。大齋原周圍的樹林、流經的河流，乃至於沙地本身，都被視為神聖的象徵。因此，遊客在參觀時，不僅是在欣賞自然風景，更是在感受那份自然與信仰共存的獨特氛圍。

The coexistence of nature and faith: The ecological landscape of this land is inextricably linked to Kumano faith. In Kumano faith, all things in nature possess spirituality. The surrounding forests, the rivers flowing through them, and even the sand itself are all considered sacred symbols. Therefore, a visitor not only enjoys the natural scenery but also experiences the unique atmosphere of the coexistence of nature and faith.

熊野古道-大齋原-本宮大社舊址-手繪還原圖

Kumano Kodo - Osaigahara - Hongu Taisha Shrine Site - Hand-drawn Reconstruction

河岸中洲的特殊生態 : 大齋原位於河流中洲，特殊的地理位置使其擁有多樣化的生態環境。儘管洪水威脅曾帶來破壞，但也造就了這裡獨特的河岸植被。這片沙地與周圍的森林生態系統形成了鮮明對比，為許多耐水性強的植物和動物提供了棲息地。

Unique Riverbank Ecology: Ōsaihara's unique location, nestled on a riverbank, fosters a diverse ecosystem. While the threat of flooding has historically caused damage, it has also fostered a unique riverbank vegetation. This sandy area contrasts sharply with the surrounding forest ecosystem, providing a habitat for many water-tolerant plants and animals.

熊野古道-大齋原-本宮大社-附近的農村建築

Kumano Kodo - Osaigahara - Hongu Taisha Shrine - nearby rural buildings

走在日本的農村中，憶起20年前有一對日本的退休夫妻。他們搬到台灣南投縣埔里鎮來享受退休生活。但不到幾個月，就無法忍受當時台灣農村的髒亂，而搬回了日本。阿弘當時無法感受那對日本夫婦的心情。如今已造訪過日本三次，可以感受到當時那對日本老夫婦心中的感概。如今台灣的農村依舊停滯不前，國土規劃未明、農地無法農用、農民缺乏生態保護觀念...等。想想我們還可以做些什麼?

Walking through rural Japan, I recall a retired Japanese couple 20 years ago. They moved to Puli Township, Nantou County, Taiwan, to enjoy their retirement. But within a few months, unable to tolerate the squalor and disorder of rural Taiwan, they moved back to Japan. Hiro couldn't empathize with the couple's feelings at the time. Now, having visited Japan three times, I can empathize with their feelings. Today, rural Taiwan remains stagnant, with unclear land planning, farmland unusable, and farmers lacking awareness of ecological conservation. What else can we do?

圖/文 : 阿弘