熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-大邊路-那智山-大門坂
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂古道
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Mt. Nachi-Daimonzaka Kodo
大門坂（Daimonzaka） 是通往熊野那智大社與那智山青岸渡寺的參拜道中最具代表性的區段，位於和歌山縣那智勝浦町。此段道路是熊野古道伊勢路與中邊路匯入後，通往熊野三山之一「熊野那智大社」的最後一段，也是朝聖者抵達聖地前必經的重要石階參拜道。「大門」之名，源自昔日此地山門（寺社入口大門）所在，雖已不存，但名稱保留下來，象徵信仰的門戶。
Daimonzaka (大门扎) is a representative section of the pilgrimage route to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine and Nachisan Seigantoji Temple, located in Nachikatsuura Town, Wakayama Prefecture. This section of the road, after the Kumano Kodo Ise Road and Nakabe Road merge, leads to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, one of the Three Mountains of Kumano. It is a crucial stone staircase pilgrims must traverse before reaching the sacred site. The name "Daimon" derives from the former mountain gate (the entrance gate to the temple or shrine) at this location. Although it no longer exists, the name remains, symbolizing a gateway of faith.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂-地圖
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mount Nachi - Daimonzaka - Map
大門坂古道全長約600公尺，兩側舖設堅實的花崗岩石板，為熊野古道典型的石疊工法，呈現數百年來朝聖者與修驗者行走的痕跡。
The Daimonzaka Kodo Trail is approximately 600 meters long, with solid granite slabs paved on both sides, a typical stone-stacking method of the Kumano Kodo, showing the traces of pilgrims and shugenja walking for hundreds of years.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂入口
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Mt. Nachi-Daimonzaka Entrance
大門坂是世界遺產「紀伊山地的聖地及參拜道」的一部分，也是熊野古道中最具代表性、也最容易入門的參拜道之一。這段古道不僅是通往熊野那智大社的門戶，更是一場深具靈性與歷史感的穿越時空之旅。
Daimonzaka is part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range" World Heritage Site and one of the most representative and accessible pilgrimage routes of the Kumano Kodo. This ancient trail is not only the gateway to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, but also a journey through time, steeped in spirituality and history.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mount Nachi - Daimonzaka Section - Nearby Houses
熊野古道大門坂段兩旁的民居，依山而建。但是卻保留了大量的自然景觀，包括自家房子的圍牆，也使用石砌生態工法。旁邊的森林也盡量保持原貌。這一種尊重自然的精神，另阿弘身為台灣南投埔里的居民感到汗顏....。阿弘返鄉探親時，常常看見埔里鄉民將自家後院的大樹生命終結，為了換取更多的使用空間，或是為了不用掃落葉的便利行為。這種無奈感令人感到絕望。
The houses along the Daimon-zaka section of the Kumano Kodo Trail are built into the hillside. Yet, they retain much of the natural beauty, including the walls of their houses, which utilize ecological stone construction methods. The surrounding forest is also preserved as much as possible in its original state. This respect for nature makes Hiro, a resident of Puli, Nantou, Taiwan, feel ashamed. When Hiro visits his family, he often sees Puli residents severing the life of large trees in their backyards to gain more space or to avoid having to rake fallen leaves. This sense of helplessness is despairing.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂-振瀨橋
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mt. Nachi - Daimonzaka - Furushe Bridge
振瀨橋與夫婦杉：跨過紅色橋身的振瀨橋，象徵著正式進入神聖的熊野領域。緊接著映入眼簾的是兩棵樹齡超過800年、枝葉交織的巨型杉樹，被稱為夫婦杉。它們高聳入雲，彷彿是古道的守護者，迎接每一位到訪的朝聖者。
Furushe Bridge and the Meotosugi: Crossing the crimson Furushe Bridge symbolizes the official entry into the sacred Kumano territory. Next, you'll see two giant cedar trees, over 800 years old, intertwined with branches and leaves. These towering trees, known as the Meotosugi, seem to stand guard over the ancient trail, welcoming every pilgrim.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mount Nachi - Daimonzaka Section
大門坂道的千年杉林 : 道路兩旁分布高達數十米、樹齡超過800至1000年的巨杉，被稱作「夫婦杉」、「子授杉」等，象徵生命與庇護。杉木林蔭密布，營造莊嚴而清涼的氛圍。
The Millennium Cedar Forest along Daimon Sakado: Giant cedars, reaching tens of meters in height and over 800 to 1,000 years old, line the road. Known as "couple cedars" and "child-giving cedars," they symbolize life and protection. The dense shade of the cedars creates a solemn and refreshing atmosphere.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mount Nachi - Daimonzaka Section
旅人們走在千年杉林中，可以感受到這大自然的莊嚴與壯闊感，不時與千年的神木握手交流。用心念與神木交換情感。這也是透過森林生態來做心靈療育的方法之一。
Travelers walking through the thousand-year-old fir forest can feel the majesty and grandeur of nature, occasionally shaking hands with the thousand-year-old sacred trees and communicating with them through their thoughts. This is also a way to achieve spiritual healing through forest ecology.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mount Nachi - Daimonzaka Section
朝聖者自古從此踏上石階，經由此「神佛交會之道」登上那智山。沿途保有濃厚的修驗道氣息，也是江戶時代繪卷與文人紀錄中經常出現的景象。
Since ancient times, pilgrims have ascended Mount Nachi via this "path where the gods and Buddhas meet." The route retains a strong Shugendo atmosphere and is a frequent feature in Edo-period picture scrolls and literary records.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-大門坂段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Mount Nachi - Daimonzaka Section
走在莊嚴的石階與古杉林中，大門坂最引人入勝的，莫過於兩側參天的杉木林。這些古杉樹齡動輒數百年，筆直的樹幹形成一道天然的綠色隧道，陽光從樹梢灑落，光影斑駁，營造出寧靜而神聖的氛圍。踩著長滿青苔的石階，每一步都彷彿能聽見歷史的回聲。
Walking through the majestic stone steps and ancient cedar forests, the most captivating aspect of Daimonzaka is undoubtedly the towering cedar forests on either side. These ancient cedars are often hundreds of years old, their straight trunks forming a natural green tunnel. Sunlight filtering through the treetops creates a dappled atmosphere, creating a tranquil and sacred atmosphere. Traversing the mossy stone steps, you can hear the echo of history with every step.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-表參道
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Nachi Taisha Shrine-Omotesando
登上了熊野古道大門板段後，則會來到那智山公車站的商店群，這裡有許多的紀念品商店可以逛。這也是那智大社的表參道入口，入口處旁是那智山郵便局，各位可以來郵便局寄一張明信片回家，幫自己留作紀念。
After ascending the Daimon section of the Kumano Kodo Trail, you'll arrive at the Nachiyama Bus Station, home to a cluster of shops offering souvenirs. This is also the main entrance to Nachi Taisha Shrine. Next to the entrance is the Nachiyama Post Office, where you can send a postcard home as a keepsake.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-表參道
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Nachi Taisha Shrine-Omotesando
從這裡還要爬表參道石階共467階，須完成約300公尺陡峭階梯才可以抵達那智大社。許多日本遊客都會帶著竹拐杖來爬這段表參道。
From here, you'll need to climb the 467 Omotesando stone steps, a steep 300-meter climb, to reach Nachi Taisha Shrine. Many Japanese tourists use bamboo canes to climb this section of Omotesando.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-表參道
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Nachi Taisha Shrine-Omotesando
我們因為很早就抵達此處，表參道的兩旁商店還沒有開門。但是感覺非常清幽。
We arrived here very early, and the shops on both sides of Omotesando were not yet open. But it felt very quiet.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-表參道
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Nachi Taisha Shrine-Omotesando
我爬了約200公尺後，終於看到青岸渡寺的紅色山門。那表示距離本宮大社已不遠。
After climbing about 200 meters, I finally saw the red gate of Seiganto-ji Temple, which indicated that the Hongu Taisha Shrine was not far away.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-參拜道-和平觀音堂
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Nachi Taisha Shrine - Pilgrimage Path - Peace Kannon Hall
在青岸渡寺的山門旁有一座和平觀音堂，殿中供奉著一尊 由那智黑石打造觀世音菩薩。菩薩的法像非常莊嚴，左手持一朵蓮花花苞，樸實又典雅的造型，令人心情平靜。
Near the main gate of Seiganto-ji Temple stands the Peaceful Guanyin Hall, where a statue of Avalokitesvara, crafted from Nachi black stone, is enshrined. The statue is remarkably majestic, holding a lotus bud in her left hand. Its simple yet elegant form evokes a sense of peace.
熊野古道朝聖-青岸渡寺-表參道-西國第一番禮所
Pilgrimage to the Kumano Kodo - Aogandaji Temple - Omotesando - Saikuni No. 1 Rites House
終於抵達了那智大社的第一鳥居，表參道旁佇立了{西國第一番禮所}石碑。「西國第一番禮所（さいごく だいいちばん れいしょ）」是指日本 西國三十三所觀音靈場巡禮（Saigoku Sanjūsansho Kannon Reijō）中的 第一番札所。「西國三十三所」：自奈良、京都、滋賀、兵庫、和歌山、岐阜等地，合計 33 所供奉觀音菩薩的靈場寺院，源於平安時代以來的朝聖傳統。「第一番禮所」即巡禮的起點寺院，朝聖者自此掛搭 納經帳、獲得第一枚御朱印，象徵正式踏入觀音菩薩慈悲的巡禮之路。
Finally arriving at the first torii gate of Nachi Taisha Shrine, the stone monument "Saigoku Daiichiban Reishi" stands beside the main approach. "Saigoku Daiichiban Reishi" (さいごくだいいちばんれしょ) refers to the first of the three sacred temples dedicated to Kannon (Saigoku Sanjūsansho) in Japan. The "Saigoku Sanjūsansho" refers to 33 temples dedicated to Kannon (Kannon) in Nara, Kyoto, Shiga, Hyōgo, Wakayama, and Gifu, a pilgrimage tradition dating back to the Heian Period. The "Daichiban Reishi" is the starting point of the pilgrimage, where pilgrims hang up their tsukyou (no kyō shō) and receive their first goshuin (red seal), symbolizing their official entry into the compassionate journey of Kannon.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-表參道-御洗手
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Nachi Taisha Shrine-Omotesando-Omashira
我們先往那智大社的方向朝聖而去，表參道旁邊有朱紅色的御洗手亭。
We first made a pilgrimage towards Nachi Taisha Shrine, and next to the main approach road was the vermilion Gowashei-tei.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-正殿鳥居
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Nachi Taisha Shrine - Main Hall Torii
當您走完那智大社的表參道，即將抵達那智大社正殿時，會看到一個位於石階盡頭、通往主殿區域的朱紅色鳥居。這個鳥居是熊野那智大社的入口之一。它代表著朝聖者正式從「俗世」進入「神域」的界線，象徵著這趟旅程的朝聖者參拜那智山的神祈，朝聖者完成了熊野古道上百公里的求法朝聖精神，內心的最高境界即將到來。
As you walk along the main approach to Nachi Taisha Shrine and approach the main shrine, you'll see a vermilion torii gate at the end of the stone steps, leading to the main hall. This gate is one of the entrances to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine. It marks the point where pilgrims officially enter the divine realm from the secular world, symbolizing their prayers to the deities of Mount Nachi. Having completed the hundreds of kilometers of spiritual pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, pilgrims are about to reach their highest spiritual state.
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-本殿
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Nachi Taisha Shrine-Main Shrine
熊野那智大社（Kumano Nachi Taisha）與熊野本宮大社、熊野速玉大社並稱「熊野三山」，是熊野信仰的核心聖地。傳說起源於神武天皇東征時（約西元前660年），祭祀「熊野夫須美大神」（與伊邪那美命習合）。原始信仰中心是那智瀑布，後來才建造社殿作為祭祀場所，神佛習合的歷史極為濃厚。2004年，熊野那智大社與青岸渡寺、那智瀑布、大門坂等共同被列入《紀伊山地的聖地與參拜道》世界文化遺產。
Kumano Nachi Taisha, along with Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, is known as one of the "Three Mountains of Kumano" and is a core sacred site in Kumano. Legend has it that the shrine originated during Emperor Jimmu's eastern expedition (around 660 BC), when he enshrined Kumano Fusumi-no-Okami (commonly associated with Izanami-no-no-Mikoto). The original center of worship was Nachi Falls, and later the shrine hall was constructed as a site of worship, resulting in a rich history of Shinto-Buddhist integration. In 2004, Kumano Nachi Taisha, along with Seigantoji Temple, Nachi Falls, and Daimonzaka, was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range."
熊野古道朝聖-那智大社-廣場遠眺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Nachi Taisha Shrine - Overlooking the Square
從那智大社正殿的廣場遠眺，可以看見對面山頭的光之峰。
Looking out from the square of the main hall of Nachi Taisha Shrine, you can see the Peak of Light on the opposite mountain.
熊野古道朝聖-那智山-青岸渡寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-Mt. Nachi-Aogandaji Temple
西國第一番禮所則是青岸渡寺，位於和歌山縣東牟婁郡那智勝浦町那智山（就在熊野那智大社旁）。供奉本尊：如意輪觀世音菩薩（にょいりん かんのんぼさつ），屬中國西傳日本的天台宗，傳說起源於西元 4 世紀，印度僧侶裸形上人（補陀落山信仰的開祖之一）於那智瀑布修行時開山。與熊野信仰融合，成為「神佛習合」代表，與隔壁的熊野那智大社共構聖域。
The first shrine in the western part of Japan is Seiganto-ji Temple, located on Nachiyama in Nachikatsuura Town, Higashimuro District, Wakayama Prefecture (next to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine). The main deity enshrined is Nyoirin Kannonbosatsu (Nyoirin Kannonbosatsu), a member of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, which spread from China to Japan. Legend has it that the temple originated in the 4th century AD when the Indian monk Nakyo Shonin (one of the founders of Potalayama cult) founded the temple while practicing at Nachi Falls. This temple has been integrated with Kumano beliefs, becoming a symbol of the "synthesis of Shinto and Buddhism," and shares a sacred area with the neighboring Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine.
熊野古道朝聖-西國第一番禮所-青岸渡寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage-The First Ceremony of the Western Kingdom-Aogandaji Temple
日本的「西國第一番禮所」指的就是 和歌山縣那智山的天台宗寺院 : 青岸渡寺。它是西國三十三所巡禮的起點，與熊野那智大社及那智瀑布共同構成靈性聖境。朝聖者自此出發，踏上遍歷近 1300 公里的「觀音三十三靈場巡禮」之路。
Seiganto-ji Temple, a Tendai sect temple on Mount Nachi in Wakayama Prefecture, is known as the "First Place of Worship in Western Japan." It is the starting point of the Western Thirty-three Pilgrimage, and together with Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine and Nachi Falls, it forms a sacred spiritual site. From here, pilgrims embark on the "Kannon Thirty-three Sacred Sites Pilgrimage," a nearly 1,300-kilometer journey.
熊野古道朝聖-大邊路-青岸渡寺-三重塔
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Obi Road - Seigantoji Temple - Three-story Pagoda
青岸渡寺的文化地位崇高，因為緊鄰日本第一高瀑布 那智瀑布（落差133公尺），青岸渡寺以「水音不斷」象徵菩薩慈悲法音不息。2004年，與熊野古道、熊野那智大社同時列入「世界文化遺產：紀伊山地的聖地與參拜道」。
Seiganto-ji Temple holds a high cultural significance due to its proximity to Nachi Falls, Japan's tallest waterfall (133 meters). Its "continuous sound of water" symbolizes the Bodhisattva's unending compassionate teachings. In 2004, it was inscribed on the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range" UNESCO World Heritage List, along with the Kumano Kodo and Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine.
來自台灣的熊野古道朝聖者 : 余佳儀
Kumano Kodo Pilgrim from Taiwan: Yu Jiayi
巧遇來的台灣朝聖者 : 余佳儀。她與雙親一起完成熊野古道的中邊路朝聖徒步。從田邊市走到本宮大社，全長約 84公里，共用四天的時間走完。我們在前一天於本宮大社相遇，今日又在那智山巧遇，幫她留下一張青岸渡寺三重塔的紀念照片。
A chance encounter with Taiwanese pilgrim Yu Jiayi. She and her parents completed the Nakabe Route pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo Trail, walking from Tanabe City to Hongu Taisha Shrine, a distance of approximately 84 kilometers, over four days. We had met at Hongu Taisha Shrine the day before, and today, by chance, we ran into each other again at Nachiyama. I helped her take a commemorative photo of the three-story pagoda of Seiganto-ji Temple.
圖/文 : 阿弘
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