熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-紀伊路散策
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-和歌山城
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Wakayama Castle
紀伊路是連接大阪城至和歌山城至田邊市的一條朝聖路線。這條路線早在熊野信仰備受推崇之前，不僅成為天皇從飛鳥(現奈良県高市郡附近)和奈良都城外出巡遊時的必經之路，在日本現存的最古老詩歌集中，稱頌這條路的詩歌也是不盡其數。翻過無盡的山嶺，沿著海岸南下。在平安時代，天皇與貴族經常透過紀伊路展開「熊野御幸」，此路線因而具有濃厚的宗教與政治意涵，是「聖地熊野」與京都王權中心之間的連結軸線。
The Kii Route is a pilgrimage route connecting Osaka Castle, Wakayama Castle, and Tanabe City. Long before the Kumano faith gained prominence, this route served as a vital route for the emperor on his tours from Asuka (near present-day Takaichi District, Nara Prefecture) and the capital of Nara. Countless poems praising this route can be found in Japan's oldest extant poetry collections. Crossing endless mountains and heading south along the coast, during the Heian period, the emperor and nobles frequently traveled the Kii Route on their "Kumano Mikuni." This route thus acquired a profound religious and political significance, serving as a connecting axis between the "holy land" of Kumano and the imperial center of Kyoto.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路地圖
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route Map
紀伊路的地理路線特色 : 紀伊路沿紀伊半島西側太平洋岸行進，途經和歌山、海南、有田、田邊等地，景觀兼具海岸線、漁港與內陸山道的變化。是連結京都、大阪、奈良方向的主要朝聖幹道，與中邊路（Nakahechi）、大邊路（Ohechi）、小邊路（Kohechi）等路線交會，形成完整的朝聖網絡。紀伊路不僅是宗教之道，也是古代紀伊國與大和、攝津等地往來的重要官道，兼具經濟與文化交流功能。
Geographical Features of the Kii Route: The Kii Route runs along the Pacific coast of the western side of the Kii Peninsula, passing through Wakayama, Kainan, Arita, and Tanabe. Its scenery offers a diverse mix of coastline, fishing ports, and inland mountain roads. It serves as a major pilgrimage route connecting Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara, intersecting with the Nakahechi, Ohechi, and Kohechi routes to form a comprehensive pilgrimage network. The Kii Route was not only a religious route but also a vital official route connecting ancient Kii Province with Yamato and Settsu, fostering both economic and cultural exchange.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-紀伊勝浦海邊
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Road - Kii Katsuura Beach
海與山的對話：行走於紀伊路古道上，既能眺望熊野灘的浩瀚大海，又能進入紀伊山地的幽靜林道，體驗多重自然景觀。
A Dialogue Between Sea and Mountain: Walking along the Kii Trail, you can gaze out at the vast ocean of Kumano Sea while entering the quiet forest trails of the Kii Mountains, experiencing a variety of natural landscapes.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-海邊的簡單晚餐
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Simple Dinner by the Sea
身為朝聖者我們的晚餐也崇尚簡單樸實的食物，超級市場中的牛奶與豆奶、玉米、和歌山的砂糖橘。簡單又營養。但是阿弘選擇一處幽靜的海邊，看著月亮從海上升起，海面上波光粼粼，吃著簡單的晚餐，感受大自然的餽贈。在八月的夏季傍晚，海風吹走了我們的暑氣。海面上月光的影子，好似這一千年來走在紀伊路上的朝聖者，那顆堅毅又虔誠的內心。
As pilgrims, we also favored simple, unpretentious meals for dinner: supermarket milk and soy milk, corn, and Wakayama tangerines. Simple and nutritious. But Hiro chose a quiet beachside spot, watching the moon rise over the sea, the shimmering waters, enjoying a simple dinner and appreciating nature's gifts. On an August evening, the sea breeze blew away the summer heat. The shadows cast by the moonlight on the sea resembled the resolute and devout hearts of the pilgrims who have walked the Kii Road for a thousand years.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-和歌山城
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Wakayama Castle
和歌山城於1585年，豐臣秀吉令其弟豐臣秀長在虎伏山築城，名匠藤堂高虎參與設計與築城。西元1619年德川賴宣（家康第十子）入城，遂為紀伊德川家根據地。西元1846年–1850年間，雷火焚毀大半城郭，之後特許重建含天守在內主要建物，流傳至現今。
Wakayama Castle was built on Mount Torabashi in 1585 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, his brother Hidenaga Toyotomi. Master craftsman Todo Takatora participated in its design and construction. In 1619, Tokugawa Yorifusa (Ieyasu's tenth son) entered the castle, making it the seat of the Kii Tokugawa clan. Between 1846 and 1850, a lightning storm destroyed much of the castle walls. Afterward, the castle was rebuilt with permission, including the main tower, which survives to this day.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-和歌山城Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Wakayama Castle
和歌山城建於虎伏山上。是江戶時期為紀州藩（紀伊德川家）市政廳，建築地位崇高，被列為國家史跡，西之丸庭園於1987年列為國家名勝。和歌山城中的建築採少見的連立式天守群（れんりつしき），主天守以渡櫓與角樓相連，形成封閉的本丸中庭，兼具防禦與權威展示。城內可觀察到多時期不同砌築法的石垣，反映豐臣、淺野、德川三期擴建演變。
Wakayama Castle, built on Mount Torabashi, served as the city hall for the Kishu Domain (Kii Tokugawa Clan) during the Edo period. Its architectural prominence has earned it a designation as a National Historic Site, and its Nishinomaru Gardens were designated a National Scenic Spot in 1987. Wakayama Castle features a rare, linked tower structure (れんりつしき). The main tower is connected to the corner towers by a turret, forming an enclosed main courtyard, serving both as a defensive and a display of authority. Stone walls constructed using various masonry techniques from different periods can be observed within the castle, reflecting the evolution of expansion during the Toyotomi, Asano, and Tokugawa eras.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-和歌山城-天守閣觀景台景觀
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Wakayama Castle - Castle Observation Deck View
和歌山城的價值在於連立式天守群的稀有性、多期石垣的演化樣本、覆屋式斜廊橋的大橋廊下與名勝級庭園四位一體；再加上紀州德川家的政治史地位，使其同時具備建築學、軍事工程與政治文化三重研究價值。
The significance of Wakayama Castle lies in its rarity, including its connected tower towers, its multi-stage stone wall evolution, its covered sloping bridge with a covered roof, and its scenic gardens. Combined with the political and historical significance of the Kishu Tokugawa family, Wakayama Castle possesses research value in architecture, military engineering, and political culture.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-和歌山城-天守閣觀景台景觀
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Wakayama Castle - Castle Observation Deck View
登上天守閣的頂樓，可遠眺和歌山縣的整個谷地與出海口，還有和歌山市的市容。次處遠眺還真的有君臨天下的感覺。如果在冷兵器的時代，要攻下這個城池，非常不容易。
Climbing to the castle tower's rooftop, you can overlook the entire Wakayama Valley, the estuary, and the cityscape of Wakayama City. From this vantage point, you truly feel like you're commanding the world. In the days of cold weapons, capturing this castle would have been incredibly difficult.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-和歌山城-西之丸庭園
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Wakayama Castle - Nishinomaru Gardens
西之丸庭園是早期江戶式回遊泉水庭，善用內濠與山麓地形，秋楓聞名；為國名勝，園中有圓暁閣等景致。阿弘在此處拍攝到一隻好似像藍磯鶇的雌鳥。
Nishinomaru Gardens is an early Edo-style circular spring garden, making good use of its inner moat and hillside terrain. It is renowned for its autumn maple leaves and is a nationally recognized scenic spot, boasting sights such as the Enkyokaku Pavilion. Hiro photographed a female blue rock thrush here.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-海邊景色Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Seaside Scenery
紀伊路上途經許多漁村、農村與古驛站，能觀察當地民俗、飲食與傳統工藝，增添人文色彩。但是最美的莫過於是海岸漁村的景色。
The Kii Route passes through many fishing villages, agricultural villages, and ancient post stations, allowing visitors to observe local customs, cuisine, and traditional crafts, adding a touch of cultural interest. However, the most beautiful scenery is undoubtedly the scenery of the coastal fishing villages.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple
高山寺坐落於和歌山縣田邊市，位於市區高台，俯瞰田邊市街與田邊灣，位置風景優美。傳說由聖德太子創建，後由弘法大師（空海）中興，故在地別稱為「弘法さん」；是真言宗御室派的重要古剎。
Located in Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, Kozan-ji Temple is situated on a hilltop overlooking Tanabe City and Tanabe Bay, offering a beautiful view. Legend has it that it was founded by Prince Shotoku and later revived by Kobo Daishi (Kukai), earning it the local nickname "Kobo-san." It is a significant ancient temple of the Shingon sect's Onmuro school.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple
高山寺的鐘樓本身雖規模不大，但因為保存完好，被視為當地極具代表性的 中世佛教建築遺構。與寺內的本堂、地藏堂共同組成高山寺的歷史建築群，具有研究地方佛教與寺院空間格局的重要價值。
Although small in size, the bell tower of Kosansa Temple is well-preserved and is considered a representative example of medieval Buddhist architecture in the region. Together with the main hall and Jizo Hall within the temple, it forms part of the Kosansa Temple complex, offering valuable insights into local Buddhism and the spatial organization of temples.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple
高山寺內的墓地中安葬著著名博物學家 南方熊楠 與合氣道創始人 植芝盛平，使其成為研究近代人物的重要信仰與文化地標。
The cemetery within Kozan-ji Temple houses the remains of renowned naturalist Kumagusu Minami and Morihei Ueshiba, the founder of Aikido, making it an important religious and cultural landmark for the study of modern figures.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-觀音堂
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Kannon-do Temple
觀音堂是高山寺的核心建築之一，供奉著觀音菩薩。這座觀音堂並非獨立存在，而是與熊野信仰、地方神道和佛教信仰緊密結合，形成了獨特的信仰體系。
The Kannon Hall is one of the core buildings of Kozan-ji Temple, dedicated to the Bodhisattva Kannon. This hall does not exist independently, but is closely integrated with Kumano faith, local Shintoism, and Buddhism, forming a unique belief system.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-觀音堂
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Kannon-do Temple
觀音堂外面寫著 真言宗 本尊觀自在菩薩(觀世音菩薩)的字樣。
The words "Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva" (Guanyin Bodhisattva) of the Shingon sect are written outside the Guanyin Hall.
高山寺-觀音堂-梁柱上木雕
Gaoshan Temple - Guanyin Hall - Woodcarvings on Beams and Pillars
在觀音堂的樑柱上，刻著可愛的相撲力士神頂著樑的樣子。
On the beams of the Guanyin Hall, there are carvings of cute sumo wrestlers holding up the beams.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple
高山寺是日本佛教信仰與文化遺產，現有本堂、多寶塔等建築，寺內也奉祀阿彌陀如來，是當地信眾朝聖與信仰活動的重要場所。高山寺建於奈良時代。它在熊野古道紀伊路上的地位極為特殊。這座寺廟不僅是修行者行經紀伊路時的休憩點與精神寄託，更在歷史上扮演了重要的角色。
Kozan-dera Temple, a cultural heritage site of Japanese Buddhism, boasts a main hall, a pagoda, and the enshrinement of Amitabha Buddha. It serves as a significant site for pilgrimage and religious activities for local believers. Built during the Nara period, Kozan-dera Temple holds a special place on the Kumano Kodo Kii Route. The temple served not only as a resting place and spiritual sustenance for ascetics traveling the Kii Route, but also played a significant role in history.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-磬鐘
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Chime Bell
在日本的神社參拜時，都要搖鈴鐺，通知神明信眾來參拜。但是在日本的佛寺，通知菩薩來參拜，並不是搖鈴鐺 ! 而是搖木槌敲罄鐘，通知佛菩薩，佛弟子來參拜。
At Japanese shrines, bells are rung to signal the arrival of worshippers. However, at Buddhist temples, bells aren't rung to signal the arrival of bodhisattvas. Instead, a wooden gavel is struck to signal the arrival of the bodhisattvas and their followers.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-瓦當圖騰
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Tile Totem
高山寺的瓦當上圖騰，刻有雲雷紋。這雲雷紋是從中國早期青銅器的旋渦雲雷紋演變而來。許多佛寺的大鼓牛皮面上，都會刺上雲雷紋。打鼓時恰似風雨雷電而來。
The totem on the roof tiles of Gaoshan Temple is engraved with a cloud-thunder pattern. This pattern evolved from the spiral cloud-thunder pattern on early Chinese bronze artifacts. Many Buddhist temples also have cloud-thunder patterns embroidered on the cowhide of large drums. Beating the drums evokes the image of wind, rain, thunder, and lightning.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-遍照金剛殿
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Henshō Kongoden
遍照金剛殿就是它所供奉 : 弘法大師 (空海和尚)。他不僅是真言密教的創始人，更是日本佛教史上極具影響力的人物。空海大師的足跡遍及熊野古道，特別是紀伊半島，他所開創的高野山，與熊野三山並列為日本重要的靈場。
The Henjo Kongoden Hall is dedicated to Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism and a highly influential figure in the history of Japanese Buddhism. Kukai traveled extensively throughout the Kumano Kodo Trail, particularly on the Kii Peninsula. Mount Koya, which he founded, is considered one of Japan's most important sacred sites, along with the Kumano Sanzan.
高山寺-地藏菩薩法像
Gaoshan Temple-Statue of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva
在照遍金剛殿旁有一尊地藏菩薩的石雕法像，樸實又莊嚴。
Next to the Zhaobian Vajra Hall there is a stone statue of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, which is simple and solemn.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-貝塚遺址碑
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Shell Mound Site Monument
高山寺貝塚位於高山寺境內，座落於田辺灣俯瞰的丘陵之上，海拔約 30–32 米。由於地形略呈半島狀，貝塚分布於南、北和西三個斜坡上。該貝塚於 1938年（昭和13年） 在墓地擴張與道路建設中首次被發掘。隨後又於1960～80年代進行了多次追加調查，確認貝層及相關文化遺構的存在。出土的土器以 厚手押型文土器（押型文、尖底深鉢形）最具代表性，樣式包含橢圓文、格子文、山形文等，部分口緣內側帶溝狀斜行文。此一特有樣式後被稱為 「高山寺式土器」，為研究日本繩文時代早期的重要標準類型（土器）。
The Koyama-ji Shell Mound is located within the Koyama-ji Temple grounds, perched on a hill overlooking Tanabe Bay, at an elevation of approximately 30–32 meters. Due to the slightly peninsular terrain, the shell mounds are distributed along three slopes: south, north, and west. The mound was first excavated in 1938 (Showa 13) during the expansion of the cemetery and road construction. Subsequent investigations from the 1960s to the 1980s confirmed the presence of shell beds and related cultural relics. The most representative pottery excavated is the thick-handed Oshige-mon pottery (Oshige-mon, deep bowl-shaped with a pointed bottom). Patterns include oval, grid, and mountain-shaped patterns, and some feature grooved, oblique lines on the inner rim. This distinctive pattern later became known as the "Koyama-ji-style pottery" and has become an important standard for studying the early Jomon period in Japan.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple
另一處靜逸的禪堂，如果在此禪堂打禪七。會比較容易將心靜下來。
There is another quiet Zen hall. If you do a seven-day Zen retreat in this hall, it will be easier to calm your mind.
熊野古道朝聖-紀伊路-高山寺-藏經閣
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Kii Route - Kozan-ji Temple - Sutra Library
在荷花池中有一藏經閣，木造的藏經閣坐落於荷花池上。發生火災時可以及時取水，避免經書被燒光。可見當時的年代，日本人民對經藏的重視。
熊野古道朝聖-中邊路-阿弘攝影師入鏡-張景雲攝
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage - Nakabe Road - Photographer Ahong captured - Photo by Chang Jingyun
熊野本宮大社-大齋原鳥居-阿弘攝影師入鏡-張景雲攝
Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine - Osaigahara Torii - Photographer Ahong captured - Photo by Chang Jingyun
熊野川-大齋原-阿弘攝影師入鏡-張景雲攝
Kumanogawa-Osaigahara-Photographer Ahong is in the picture-Photo by Chang Jingyun
熊野古道朝聖之路的紀錄，阿弘剩下伊勢路沒有拜訪。祈願下次的日本行是飛名古屋，先到伊勢神宮參訪後，沿著熊野古道伊勢路一路南下。再接上大邊路與紀伊路。來一趟日本農村與漁村之旅。期待下次的日本之旅。
Hiro's only remaining section on the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route is Ise Road. My next trip to Japan is to fly to Nagoya, visit Ise Jingu Shrine, and then continue south along the Kumano Kodo Ise Road. Then, connect with the Obe Road and the Kii Road, and enjoy a trip through Japan's rural countryside and fishing villages. Looking forward to my next trip to Japan.
圖/文 : 阿弘
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