熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-高野山町石道

熊野古道朝聖之路-高野山町石道

Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Koyasan Stone Path

 

高野山這裡因空海大師建立了日本佛教根基佈教所而聞名世界，所有想學習佛法的日本人必來朝聖之道。這條千年的朝聖之路，洗滌著所有朝聖者內心的塵垢。我們的朝聖旅程就從高野山開始。點亮我們的心燈，破除我們的無明。

Mount Koya is renowned worldwide for being the place where Master Kukai established the foundation of Japanese Buddhism. It is a must-visit for all Japanese who wish to learn the Dharma. This thousand-year-old pilgrimage cleanses the hearts of all who journey. Our pilgrimage begins at Mount Koya. Let us light our hearts and dispel our ignorance.

弘法大師（空海和尚）

Kobo Daishi (Kūkai)

要說高野山的故事，就要從日本佛教史上最具傳奇的弘法大師（空海和尚）之人生故事開始。空海（Kūkai, 774-835），法號「弘法大師」（Kōbō-Daishi），是日本平安時代初期一位 集僧侶、學者、藝術家、文學家、工程師於一身的超凡人物。他不僅創立了日本佛教真言宗（Shingon），其影響力更滲透到日本文化的各個層面，至今仍受到無比的尊崇。他的一生，宛如一部壯闊的史詩，等著您來翻閱。

The story of Mount Koya begins with the life of Kūkai (Kūkai), one of the most legendary figures in Japanese Buddhist history. Kūkai (774-835), known by his Buddhist name "Kōbō-Daishi," was a remarkable figure during the early Heian period of Japan, a master monk, scholar, artist, writer, and engineer. He not only founded the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism, but his influence permeated every aspect of Japanese culture and remains immensely revered today. His life is a magnificent epic, waiting to be read.

徬徨的菁英 - 山林的求道者

Wandering Elite - Seekers in the Mountains

出身與早慧：空海於西元774年出生在讚岐國（今香川縣），本名佐伯真魚。他出身於地方豪族家庭，自幼聰穎過人，被寄予厚望。15歲時，他奉舅父之命前往京城，學習儒家經典，準備將來成為一名治國的官僚。

Born in 774 AD in Sanuki Province (present-day Kagawa Prefecture), Kukai's real name was Saeki Shinyo. Born into a powerful local family, he was exceptionally intelligent from a young age, earning him high hopes. At age 15, he was sent by his uncle to the capital to study Confucian classics, preparing for a career as a government official.

理想的幻滅與轉向：在京城的國立大學（大学寮），空海雖然學業優異，但他逐漸對儒學感到不滿足。他發現，儒家學說能教人如何治理國家、安頓社會，卻無法解答「我是誰？」「生死的終極意義是什麼？」這些更深層次的哲學與靈性問題。他內心深處的渴望，無法在世俗的功名利祿中得到滿足。

Disillusionment and a shift in perspective: While studying at the National University (Daghaku-ryō) in the capital, Kūkai gradually grew dissatisfied with Confucianism. He discovered that while Confucianism could teach how to govern a nation and stabilize society, it could not answer deeper philosophical and spiritual questions such as "Who am I?" and "What is the ultimate meaning of life and death?" His deepest longings could not be satisfied by worldly fame and fortune.

投身山林修行：20歲左右，空海毅然決然地放棄了光明平坦的仕途，選擇成為一名在山林中苦修的「優婆塞」（私度僧，即未經官方剃度的修行者）。他遊走於四國地區險峻的山脈與海岸，進行極其嚴苛的修行，如在瀑布下打坐、誦讀經文。據傳，他在德島的太龍寺、高知的室戶岬等地修行時，體驗到了與宇宙本體合一的神秘經驗。這段時期的探索與思考，被他寫成了著作《三教指歸》。在這本書中，他比較了儒、釋、道三家的思想，最終論證了佛教，特別是能揭示宇宙終極真理的「密教」，才是最高的教義。這也確立了他未來的人生方向。

Devoting himself to mountain retreat: Around the age of 20, Kukai resolutely abandoned a promising and promising career in government to pursue a life of asceticism in the mountains. He journeyed through the rugged mountains and coastal areas of Shikoku, engaging in rigorous practice, including meditating beneath waterfalls and reciting sutras. It is said that while practicing at Tairyu-ji Temple in Tokushima and Cape Muroto in Kochi, he experienced mystical experiences of unity with the cosmic essence. His explorations and reflections during this period were translated into the book "Sanjiao Zhigui." In this work, he compared the ideas of Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, ultimately arguing that Buddhism, particularly the Esoteric Buddhism, which revealed the ultimate truth of the universe, was the highest teaching. This book also established the direction of his future life.

入唐求法，改變命運的相遇

Going to China to seek Dharma, an encounter that changed my destiny

冒險的旅程：為了追尋密教的完整教法，空海意識到必須前往其發源地-當時世界文化中心的大唐長安。西元804年，31歲的空海作為「學問僧」，登上了危險重重的遣唐使船隊，踏上了改變日本歷史的旅程。同行的還有另一位未來的佛教大師-最澄和尚（日本天台宗創始人）。

A perilous journey: In pursuit of the complete teachings of Esoteric Buddhism, Kukai realized he must journey to its birthplace—Chang'an, then the cultural center of the Tang Dynasty. In 804 AD, the 31-year-old Kukai, a "scholarly monk," embarked on a perilous voyage to the Tang Dynasty, embarking on a journey that would change Japanese history. Accompanying him was another future Buddhist master, Saicho, the founder of Japan's Tendai school.

長安的奇遇：歷經海上風暴與波折，空海終於抵達長安。這座國際大都會的繁華與文化底蘊讓他大開眼界。他不僅學習梵文、詩詞、書法，更四處尋訪密教的正統傳承者。最終，他來到了長安青龍寺，拜見了當時的密教第七代祖師惠果和尚。這次會面充滿了傳奇色彩。據說，惠果一見到空海，便欣喜地說：「我等你很久了！我的法，終於有了可以傳承的人。」

An Adventure in Chang'an: After navigating stormy seas and numerous setbacks, Kūkai finally arrived in Chang'an. The prosperity and cultural richness of this cosmopolitan city opened his eyes. He not only studied Sanskrit, poetry, and calligraphy, but also sought out orthodox inheritors of Esoteric Buddhism. Eventually, he arrived at Qinglong Temple in Chang'an and met Huiguo, the seventh-generation patriarch of Esoteric Buddhism. This meeting is legendary. Legend has it that upon meeting Kūkai, Huiguo exclaimed with joy, "I have waited so long for you! My Dharma has finally found someone to inherit."

短暫而完整的傳承：在短短數月內，惠果和尚將密教「胎藏界」與「金剛界」兩部大法的完整教義、儀軌、法器、曼荼羅等，傾囊相授給了這位來自東瀛的天才弟子，並賜予他法號「遍照金剛」。這意味著空海成為了密教第八代祖師。完成傳法後不久，惠果和尚便圓寂了，彷彿他的使命就是等待空海的到來。

A brief yet complete transmission: In just a few months, Master Huiguo imparted the complete teachings, rituals, instruments, and mandalas of the two great esoteric teachings of Garbha-dhara and Vajra-dhara to this gifted disciple from Japan, bestowing upon him the Dharma name "Pervading Vajra." This marked Kukai as the eighth patriarch of esoteric Buddhism. Shortly after completing his transmission, Master Huiguo passed away, as if his mission was to await Kukai's arrival.

返國弘法，開創真言宗

Returned to Japan to spread Buddhism and founded Shingon Buddhism

奠定基礎：西元806年，空海帶著海量的經書、法器和藝術品返回日本。他向朝廷呈上了詳細的《御請來目錄》，展示了他在大唐所學的精深密教體系。憑藉其淵博的學識、卓越的才能和為國家祈福的密教儀式，他逐漸獲得了嵯峨天皇的絕對信任。

Laying the Foundation: In 806 AD, Kukai returned to Japan with a vast collection of Buddhist scriptures, instruments, and works of art. He presented the court with a detailed "Imperial Catalogue," showcasing the profound esoteric Buddhist system he had learned in the Tang Dynasty. His profound knowledge, exceptional talent, and esoteric Buddhist rituals dedicated to the well-being of the nation gradually earned him the unwavering trust of Emperor Saga.

高野山-金剛峯寺

Koyasan-Kongōbuji Temple

建立根本道場：東寺（教王護國寺）： 西元823年，嵯峨天皇將京都的東寺賜予空海，作為其弘揚真言宗的根本道場。東寺成為日本第一個專門的密教寺院，肩負著「鎮護國家」的重任。高野山（金剛峯寺）： 空海認為，修行需要一個遠離塵囂的清淨之地。他親自踏遍山水，最終在紀伊半島（今和歌山縣）發現了被八座山峰環繞的蓮花聖地—高野山。西元816年，他獲得天皇敕許，在此開創了宏偉的伽藍，使其成為真言宗的修行中心與聖地。

Establishing the Root Dojo: To-ji Temple (Kyo-gokoku-ji): In 823 AD, Emperor Saga gifted To-ji Temple in Kyoto to Kukai as his root dojo for the promotion of Shingon Buddhism. To-ji Temple became Japan's first dedicated Esoteric Buddhist temple, entrusted with the mission of protecting the nation. Koyasan (Kongōbu-ji): Kukai believed that spiritual practice required a tranquil sanctuary, detached from the hustle and bustle of the world. He personally traveled extensively, ultimately discovering Mount Koya, a sacred lotus sanctuary surrounded by eight peaks on the Kii Peninsula (present-day Wakayama Prefecture). In 816 AD, with the Emperor's permission, he founded a magnificent monastery there, transforming it into a center of Shingon practice and a sacred site.

高野山-金剛峯寺-內院

Koyasan - Kongobuji Temple - Inner Courtyard

高野山是真言宗的開山祖師空海大師於西元816年所開創的佛教聖地。金剛峯寺是高野山真言宗的總本山，但它並非單一建築，而是指整個高野山地區的總稱。現在所稱的金剛峯寺，是明治時期將原有的青巖寺與興山寺合併而成，至今仍是日本重要的信仰中心和世界文化遺產。寺內擁有豐富的文化財，以及令人震撼的襖繪。

Mount Koya is a sacred Buddhist site founded in 816 AD by Kukai Daishi, the founder of the Shingon sect. Kongobu-ji Temple is the headquarters of the Shingon sect in Koyasan, but it is not a single building but rather the collective name for the entire Koyasan area. The current Kongobu-ji Temple, formed during the Meiji era by the merger of the former Seigan-ji Temple and Kozan-ji Temple, remains a significant center of faith in Japan and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple grounds boast a wealth of cultural heritage, including stunning kimono paintings.

空海大師是如何選中高野山的傳說

The legend of how Master Kukai chose Mount Koya

三鈷杵的傳說 : 空海準備自中國返日時，向東方拋出法器 三鈷杵（Vajra），祈願能落在弘法適宜的靈山。日後在日本，他在高野山一棵松樹上發現了那支閃閃發光的三鈷杵。這棵松至今仍立於壇上伽藍，稱為「三鈷之松」。現實的地理條件 : 高野山位於海拔約800公尺的山上盆地，四周群山環繞，形如盛開的蓮花，是佛教極樂淨土的象徵。而此處的氣候清涼，與世隔絕，非常適合修行。

The legend of the Vajra: As Kukai prepared to return to Japan from China, he threw the Vajra, a Buddhist instrument, eastward, praying that it would land on a sacred mountain suitable for the spread of the Dharma. Later in Japan, he discovered the gleaming Vajra in a pine tree on Mount Koya. This pine tree still stands at the Danjo Temple today and is known as the "Vajra Pine." Realistic Geography: Mount Koya, located in a mountain basin at an altitude of approximately 800 meters and surrounded by mountains, resembles a blooming lotus and is a symbol of the Buddhist Pure Land. Its cool climate and seclusion make it ideal for spiritual practice.

空海大師入定與不朽的傳說

The legend of Kukai's meditation and immortality

西元835年，62歲的空海在高野山奧之院預知時至，向弟子們告別後，進入了甚深的禪定狀態，此即所謂的「入定」（Nyūjō）。真言宗的信徒們並不認為他已經死亡，而是相信他至今仍在奧之院的御廟中，處於永恆的冥想狀態，守護著眾生，等待未來佛彌勒菩薩的降臨。西元921年，醍醐天皇追贈其「弘法大師」的諡號。從此，「お大師さま」（O-Daishi-sama，大師大人）成為日本人對他親切而崇敬的稱呼。

In 835 AD, at the age of 62, Kukai foresaw his end at Okunoin Temple in Koyasan. After bidding farewell to his disciples, he entered a state of deep meditation known as Nyūjō. Shingon followers do not consider him dead, but rather believe that he remains in the imperial shrine at Okunoin Temple, in a state of eternal meditation, watching over all beings and awaiting the arrival of the future Buddha, Maitreya. In 921 AD, Emperor Daigo posthumously bestowed upon him the title of "Kobo Daishi." From then on, "O-Daishi-sama" (大師大人) became a term of endearment and respect for him in Japan.

永遠的同行二人

Two people who will always be together

空海的一生，是從對個人生命意義的探求，昇華到對眾生福祉與國家安寧的貢獻。他所創立的真言宗，以其豐富的哲學、藝術和儀軌，成為日本文化的重要支柱。至今，無數信眾踏上「四國八十八箇所」的朝聖之路，這條路據信是空海當年修行的足跡。朝聖者們頭戴斗笠，上書「同行二人」，意為「我不是一個人，弘法大師與我同在」。這位千年之前的巨人，並未隨著時間消逝。他化身為信仰、文化與傳說，永遠活在日本人的心中，與每一位尋道者同行。

Kukai's life journeyed from a personal search for meaning to a contribution to the well-being of all beings and the peace of the nation. The Shingon school he founded, with its rich philosophy, art, and rituals, has become a vital pillar of Japanese culture. To this day, countless believers embark on the "Shikoku 88 Kosho" pilgrimage route, believed to trace the path Kukai once took. Pilgrims wear conical hats inscribed with "Two Walking Together," meaning, "I am not alone; Kobo Daishi is with me." This giant from a thousand years ago has not faded with time. Transformed into faith, culture, and legend, he lives forever in the hearts of the Japanese, accompanying every seeker.

每日的「生身供（Shojinku）

Daily Shojinku

高野山的僧侶每日兩次為仍在入定中的弘法大師準備飲食，從御供所送往奧之院御廟供奉。

這項持續超過1200年的儀式，是「弘法大師不死」信仰最直接的體現。

Twice daily, monks at Koyasan prepare food and drink for Kobo Daishi, who remains in meditation, and bring it from the Gokusho to the Okunoin Temple for offering. This ritual, which has lasted for over 1,200 years, is the most direct manifestation of the belief in Kobo Daishi's immortality.

高野山-壇上伽藍-根本大塔

Koyasan - Danjo Garan - Konpon Daito

壇上伽藍是空海大師開創高野山時，首先著手規劃的根本道場，與奧之院並列為高野山信仰的核心。伽藍內有多座重要建築，其中，根本大塔是日本第一座多寶塔，鮮豔的朱紅色外觀相當吸睛；而金堂則是高野山整體的總本堂，舉辦各種法會儀式都在此地。這些建築群體現了真言密宗的獨特世界觀，莊嚴而壯觀。

Danjo Garan was the first center of Koyasan's history planned by Master Kukai when he founded the temple. Along with Okunoin, it is considered the core of Koyasan's faith. Within the garan are several important buildings, including the Konpon Daito, Japan's first pagoda, with its vibrant vermilion exterior. The Kondo Hall, the main hall for Koyasan, is the venue for various rituals. These buildings embody the unique worldview of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, creating a majestic and magnificent atmosphere.

高野山-建築古蹟保護

Koyasan - Architectural Heritage Preservation

高野山作為世界文化遺產「紀伊山地的靈場與參拜道」的一部分，其建築古蹟保護主要依循日本的《文化財保護法》與地方條例。高野町文化財保護條例明確規範了文化財的指定、保存與活用，並要求所有人或管理者妥善維護。對於重要的建築，日本政府會提供修繕補助金，並鼓勵使用與原始樣貌相符的材料，以最大限度保留其歷史價值。此外，高野山也注重防火措施，例如在寺院建築屋頂設置「天水桶」，藉以保護這些珍貴的木造建築。

As part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range" World Cultural Heritage, the preservation of Koyasan's architectural monuments is primarily governed by Japan's Cultural Property Protection Act and local ordinances. The Koya Town Cultural Property Protection Ordinance clearly regulates the designation, preservation, and utilization of cultural assets and requires their proper maintenance by owners or managers. For important buildings, the Japanese government provides renovation subsidies and encourages the use of materials consistent with their original appearance to maximize their historical value. Koyasan also emphasizes fire prevention measures, such as installing "sky buckets" on the roofs of temple buildings to protect these precious wooden structures.

漫談高野山-森林保護

A Talk on Koyasan - Forest Conservation

高野山的森林保護政策，主要是由「高野山寺領森林組合」負責執行。他們以永續發展為核心，進行造林、育林和森林保育工作。這包括了新植樹木、定期除草、疏伐、修剪樹枝等，以確保森林的健康生長。此外，他們也推動「森林療癒」等利用計畫，讓遊客能親身體驗森林的美好，進而提升大眾對環境保護的意識。同時，透過完善的作業道路和保育技術，在高野山這片歷史悠久的聖地，保持人與自然的和諧共存。

Koyasan's forest conservation policy is primarily implemented by the Koyasan Temple Forest Association. With sustainability as their core focus, they carry out afforestation, forest cultivation, and forest conservation efforts. This includes planting new trees, regular weeding, thinning, and pruning to ensure healthy forest growth. They also promote programs such as "Forest Therapy," allowing visitors to experience the beauty of the forest firsthand and raising public awareness of environmental protection. Furthermore, through well-developed access roads and conservation techniques, they strive to maintain a harmonious coexistence between humans and nature in this historic sacred site.

高野山-奧之院參拜道-古墓群

Koyasan - Okunoin Pilgrimage Road - Ancient Tombs

阿弘隔天於清晨0530起床，0600準時從民宿出發前往高野山最神聖的參拜道入口:奧之院參拜道。為什麼用神聖來形容呢? 這條1.6公里長的參拜道巨木參天，兩旁是日本一千多年來的許多名人之墓葬。包括 : 織田信長、德川家康、豐臣秀吉...還有許多知名企業家。去逝後都想來到高野山奧之院與空海大師一起修行。

The next morning, Hiro woke up at 5:30 a.m. and departed from his guesthouse promptly at 6:00 a.m. for the entrance to Koyasan's most sacred shrine: the Okunoin Shrine. Why is it sacred? This 1.6-kilometer-long shrine is lined with towering trees and lined with the tombs of many famous Japanese figures from over the past thousand years. These include Oda Nobunaga, Tokugawa Ieyasu, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and many other renowned entrepreneurs. After death, they all wished to visit Koyasan's Okunoin to practice with Master Kukai.

高野山-奧之院參拜道

Koyasan-Okunoin Pilgrimage Route

走在這奧之院參拜道上，此時的空氣中充滿了森林的芬多精，陽光從巨杉木間透了進來，兩旁雖然是數不盡古墓。但是阿弘的心中一點也沒有恐懼感。每一處古墓都是樸實的石材堆砌而成的石塔，石縫中長出地衣與青苔和蕨類。大自然透過植物告訴人們，什麼是最美的景色。

Walking along the Okunoin Shrine Road, the air was thick with forest phytoncides, sunlight filtering through the giant cedars. Though countless ancient tombs lined the grounds, Hiro felt no fear at all. Each tomb was a simple stone tower, its crevices brimming with lichen, moss, and ferns. Nature, through plants, revealed the true beauty of the landscape.

高野山-奧之院參拜道

Koyasan-Okunoin Pilgrimage Route

雖然本次我們走到了奧之院時，因為古蹟整修的原因，無法入內參觀。但是這條充滿尊重大自然的千年朝聖之路，已讓我內心充滿了正面的能量。就如同古道旁的菩薩像，以慈悲與智慧來面對世間的人事物。這就是朝聖者內在精神。

Although we were unable to enter the Okunoin Temple due to renovations, this thousand-year-old pilgrimage, steeped in respect for nature, has filled my heart with positive energy. Just like the Bodhisattva statues lining the ancient path, we face the world with compassion and wisdom. This is the inner spirit of the pilgrim.

高野山-森風香護手霜 (推薦好物)

Koyasan-Morifuka Hand Cream (Recommended)

這款護手霜的靈感來自高野山森林的芬芳，讓您彷彿置身於森林浴中。蘊含大量來自高野山雪松、扁柏和日本杉樹的樹木、枝葉的芳香油。每次塗抹於手上，都能感受到舒緩的森林香氣，讓您享受片刻的放鬆。

Inspired by the fragrance of the Koyasan forest, this hand cream evokes the feeling of a forest bath. Formulated with aromatic oils from the trees and leaves of Koyasan's cedar, hinoki cypress, and Japanese cedar, it delivers a soothing forest aroma, inviting a moment of relaxation.

材料使用高野山森林的代表性樹木 : 

The materials used are representative trees from the Koyasan forest:

雪松：雪松精油生長於日本的森林中，包括高野山，其清新潔淨的香氣令人心曠神怡，令人精神煥發。這款精油濃縮了高野雪鬆的自然恩賜，這些雪鬆生長在潔淨的水源和空氣中。精心蒸餾木材提取的香氛，散發著濃鬱、活力四射的日本木材特有的香氣，清新活力，並帶有一絲柑橘的芬芳。

Cedarwood: Grown in the forests of Japan, including Mount Koya, Cedarwood essential oil offers a refreshing, clean aroma that invigorates and revitalizes the mind. This essential oil concentrates the natural bounty of Koya cedars, which thrive in pristine water and air. Carefully distilled from the wood, the fragrance delivers a rich, vibrant aroma of this Japanese wood, fresh and invigorating with a hint of citrus.

檜木：檜木生長於日本的森林中，包括高野山，是一種以芬芳聞名的名貴木材。高野檜木生長在清澈的水源和空氣中，其香氣經過精心蒸餾，創造出檜木浴中令人安心的香氣，而其枝葉則散發著清新的香氣，撫慰您的心靈。

Hinoki: Found in forests across Japan, including Mount Koya, Hinoki is a precious wood renowned for its fragrance. Grown amidst pristine waters and air, the aroma of Koya Hinoki is carefully distilled to create the soothing aroma of a Hinoki bath, while its branches and leaves exude a refreshing fragrance to soothe your soul.

日本雪松：高野山常見的佛教供奉花卉。這款精油採用高野山種植者精心挑選的新鮮枝葉，精心蒸餾而成，凝結著大自然的恩賜。清新濃鬱的綠色香氣，將您帶入高野山寧靜的森林空間。

Japanese cedar: a common Buddhist offering on Mount Koya. This essential oil is meticulously distilled from fresh branches and leaves carefully selected by growers in Mount Koya, embodying the bounty of nature. Its refreshing, rich green aroma transports you to the tranquil forests of Mount Koya.

高級古日本雪松精油 : 2023年，為紀念弘法大師誕辰1250週年，奧之院和金剛峰寺周圍建造了新的護城河圍欄。之前的舊圍欄由日本雪松製成。這些護城河圍籬一直守護著高野山的神聖區域。這些古樹在高野山上作為樹木和護城河圍欄存在了一個多世紀，如今它們已完成使命。它們重生為芳香精油，繼續將永恆的時光流轉傳遞到現在。享受日本雪松獨特、舒緩的綠色香味和隨著時間流逝而交織的歷史深度。

Premium Ancient Japanese Cedar Essential Oil: In 2023, to commemorate the 1250th anniversary of Kobo Daishi's birth, new moat fences were constructed around Okunoin and Kongobuji Temples. The previous fences were made of Japanese cedar. These moat fences have long protected the sacred precincts of Koyasan. These ancient trees have served as both trees and moat fences on Koyasan for over a century, but now their mission has been fulfilled. Reborn as aromatic essential oil, they continue to convey the timeless flow of time to the present day. Enjoy the unique, soothing green fragrance of Japanese cedar and the depth of history interwoven with time.

圖/文 : 阿弘