熊野古道朝聖之路-日本行腳-小邊路-果無集落段
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路-果無集落段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Gomu Village Section
果無集落（はてなししゅうらく）路段是熊野古道小邊路（小辺路）中最具代表性的區間之一，被譽為「天空之里」。這段路程因其獨特的地理環境和文化意涵，在熊野古道朝聖者中享有極高的聲譽。
The Hatenashisuraku section is one of the most iconic sections of the Kumano Kodo Kobe Road (Kobeji), known as the "Sato in the Sky." This stretch enjoys a high reputation among Kumano Kodo pilgrims for its unique geographical setting and cultural significance.
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路全圖
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Full Map of the Small Side Road
小邊路是以最短的距離連接真言密教總本山-高野山和熊野本宮大社這兩大聖地的朝聖路線。全程總長約70公里，途中要越過伯母子峠、三浦峠、果無峠這三個海拔超過1000米的高山才能抵達熊野本宮大社。雖然步道的高低落差大，相當險峻不易行走，但沿途有很多石板路、作為路標的石碑，還可以看到三十三座觀音石像，登山的疲勞也瞬間被治愈。一般來說，走完全程需要4-5天。
The Kobe Trail is the shortest pilgrimage route connecting Koyasan, the headquarters of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, and Kumano Hongu Taisha, two sacred shrines. The route, approximately 70 kilometers long, crosses three peaks exceeding 1,000 meters: the Homoko Pass, the Miura Pass, and the Kano Pass before reaching Kumano Hongu Taisha. While the trail is steep and challenging due to its dramatic elevation gain, it is punctuated by numerous stone paths, stone monuments, and the sight of the 33 stone statues of Kannon, offering a welcome respite from the fatigue of the climb. The entire route typically takes four to five days.
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路-果無集落段-指示牌
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Gomu Village Section - Signpost
地勢險峻與海拔爬升高，果無集落路段橫跨紀伊山地的脊梁，海拔高度從800公尺到1000公尺不等。與其他熊野古道路段相比，小邊路本身就以陡峭的坡道和多變的地形聞名，而果無集落路段更是其中的精華。這段路程考驗著朝聖者的體力與毅力，也正因如此，它被認為是「紀伊山地靈場與參拜道」中，最能體現「修行」意涵的路段之一。
The Komu-no-Kushu section, steep and steep, straddles the backbone of the Kii Mountain Range, reaching altitudes ranging from 800 to 1000 meters. While the Kobi-no-Kushu section is renowned for its steep inclines and varied terrain compared to other sections of the Kumano Kodo, the Komu-no-Kushu section is its most quintessential. This journey challenges pilgrims' physical strength and perseverance, earning it the distinction of being one of the most spiritually oriented sections of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range."
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Section - Bamboo Forest
走進竹林路段時，看見了自然風乾的竹杖佇立於古道旁。天然形成的挺拔樣態，煞是好看。
As we walked through the bamboo forest, we saw naturally dried bamboo canes standing beside the ancient path. Their naturally formed upright shapes were truly beautiful.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Section - Cobblestone Road
歷史遺跡與信仰象徵意義，雖然路途艱辛，但沿途仍保留了許多歷史遺跡，例如：觀音堂：路途中間的觀音堂是重要的休息點，也是昔日朝聖者祈求旅途平安的信仰中心。地藏菩薩石像：沿途有多處刻有地藏菩薩的石碑或石像，為朝聖者指引方向，也象徵著在地人的信仰。這些歷史遺跡不僅是古道的組成部分，也訴說著朝聖者千百年來所經歷的故事與信仰。
Despite the arduous journey, many historical sites remain along the route. For example, the Guanyin Hall, located midway along the route, served as an important resting point and a center of faith for pilgrims seeking safe journeys. Stone statues of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva are found along the route, depicting stone tablets and statues of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, guiding pilgrims and symbolizing the local faith. These historical sites are not only integral to the ancient trail but also tell the stories and beliefs pilgrims have experienced for thousands of years.
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路-果無集落段
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Gomu Village Section
具稀有聚落與文化價值的「果無集落」本身是一個非常小的村莊，幾乎與世隔絕。這個名字有著「前方無路」或「盡頭」的意涵，暗示了此處的偏遠與原始。這個集落保留了日本山村的傳統生活樣貌，其特殊的地理位置和人文景觀，使其成為世界遺產的核心構成之一。行走在這段路上，能讓人深刻體會到人與自然和諧共存的古老智慧。
"Gomu Village," a village of rare and cultural significance, is a very small, almost isolated community. Its name, meaning "no path ahead" or "end," alludes to its remoteness and pristine nature. This village preserves the traditional life of a Japanese mountain village. Its unique geographical location and cultural landscape have made it a core component of World Heritage status. Walking along this path, one can deeply appreciate the ancient wisdom of harmonious coexistence between man and nature.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Gomu Village Section
果無集落路段的魅力在於它的挑戰性、壯麗的自然景觀、豐富的歷史文化，以及它所傳達的修行精神。對於想要深入體驗熊野古道朝聖文化精髓的專家級朝聖者來說，這段路程是絕對不容錯過的經典朝聖路段。
The allure of the Kumano Village section lies in its challenging nature, magnificent natural scenery, rich history and culture, and the spiritual practice it conveys. For expert pilgrims seeking to deeply experience the essence of Kumano Kodo pilgrimage culture, this section is a must-see.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Komu Village - World Heritage Sign
阿弘走到果無集落時，天已亮。但太陽還未出來。這個小村落的農民還未起床。據說住在這裡的農民都很長壽。可惜沒有遇見村落的農民在耕作的樣子，不然一定會可以看見天堂般的農耕世界。只有大大的世界遺產招牌等候著我的到來。
By the time Hiro reached the village of Gono, it was already daybreak. But the sun hadn't risen yet. The farmers in this small village hadn't even gotten up yet. It's said that the farmers here are known for their longevity. It was a shame I didn't see them working the fields; otherwise, I'd have seen a paradise-like agricultural world. Only the large World Heritage sign awaited me.
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Komu Village with a view of Miura Peak
壯麗景觀與「天空之里」，由於地勢高聳，行經此處時，視野非常開闊。天氣晴朗時，朝聖者可以從高處俯瞰紀伊山地連綿不斷的山巒和位於山谷中的集落，風景如畫。在某些特定的地點，甚至能感受到雲霧繚繞，彷彿置身於雲端之上，這也是「天空之里」美譽的由來。沿途的景觀從茂密的杉樹林、古老的石階到開闊的視野，提供了豐富的視覺體驗。
Magnificent scenery and the "Sato in the Sky" region. Due to its elevated position, the view through this area is exceptionally expansive. On clear days, pilgrims can gaze down upon the picturesque landscape of the Kii Mountain Range's rolling hills and the settlements nestled in the valleys. At certain points, even a shroud of mist can be felt, creating a sense of being above the clouds, hence the name "Sato in the Sky." The scenery along the way, from dense cedar forests and ancient stone stairways to expansive vistas, offers a rich visual experience.
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路-果無集落-世界文化遺產石碑
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Gomu Village - World Cultural Heritage Monument
這座石碑位於果無集落的最高處，確切地說，是在海拔約800公尺左右，被譽為「果無集落石疊道」的精華路段。當朝聖者從十津川溫泉或笹原方向徒步攀爬至此，在穿越果無集落的傳統民居與梯田後，會來到一個視野遼闊的觀景點。這座石碑便矗立於此，標誌著朝聖者即將進入果無越嶺（果無越え）的後半段。
This stone monument is located at the highest point of the Karashi settlement, approximately 800 meters above sea level. It is considered the most important section of the Karashi settlement's "Stone Road." Pilgrims climbing this path from Totsukawa Onsen or Sasahara, after passing through Karashi settlement's traditional houses and terraced rice paddies, arrive at a panoramic viewpoint. This stone monument stands here, marking the beginning of the second half of the Karashi Crossing.
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路-果無集落-雌滝（めんだき）
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Komu Village - Metaki - Water fall
在果無越嶺（果無越え）這條陡峭的古道上，雌滝位於一個相對隱蔽、但重要的位置。它通常「雄滝（おん滝）」成對出現，這是一種在日本山岳信仰中常見的擬人化現象。雄滝與雌滝的二元對應：在日本的傳統山岳信仰中，雄滝代表陽剛、強大、氣勢磅礡，通常水量豐沛、落差較大。相對地，雌滝則象徵著陰柔、優美與細膩，其水流通常較為溫和、涓涓細流，有時甚至被隱藏在山林深處。這種「陰陽」或「男女」的對應，不僅是一種地理景觀的描述，更是反映了古代日本人對自然萬物的理解與敬畏。生命與滋養的象徵：果無越嶺地勢險峻，水源稀缺，因此在朝聖者眼中，雌滝不僅僅是風景，更是生命力的象徵。它所代表的涓涓細流，在漫長的旅途中提供了重要的水源，滋養了沿途的動植物，也為疲憊的朝聖者帶來一絲清涼與慰藉。從這個角度來看，雌滝體現了自然界中柔和而持續的生命能量。
On the steep ancient trail of the Gomuyu Ridge, the Shitaki Falls occupies a relatively secluded yet crucial location. It often appears in pairs with the "male waterfall," a common anthropomorphic phenomenon in Japanese mountain worship. The duality of male and female waterfalls: In traditional Japanese mountain worship, male waterfalls represent masculinity, strength, and grandeur, often characterized by abundant water and a dramatic drop. In contrast, female waterfalls symbolize femininity, grace, and delicacy, often flowing more gently, sometimes even hidden deep within the forest. This "yin and yang" or "male and female" correspondence is more than just a description of the geographical landscape; it reflects the ancient Japanese understanding and reverence for all things natural. A symbol of life and nourishment: Given the steep terrain and scarce water resources of the Gomuyu Ridge, Shitaki Falls is seen by pilgrims as more than just a scenic sight; it symbolizes the vitality of life. The gentle trickle it represents provides a vital source of water during the long journey, nourishing the flora and fauna along the way and bringing a sense of coolness and comfort to weary pilgrims. From this perspective, the female waterfall embodies the gentle and continuous life energy in nature.
熊野古道朝聖之路-小邊路-果無集落-公共廁所
Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route - Small Side Road - Gomu Village - Public Toilet
在這個罕無人煙的小村落之中，有著一座極其乾淨又樸實的公共廁所，我不禁懷疑這座廁所為何會如此乾淨? 我在村落佇足30分鐘後，就看著一位超過70歲以上的老奶奶，穿著圍裙與雨靴來到公共廁所，開始打掃這座極其偏遠的公共廁所。而且非常邁力打掃，把它打掃的一塵不染。讓需要使用公共廁所的朝聖者，舒舒服服的使用它。我自己認為老奶奶的工作，也是一種朝聖行為。每日清晨的生活儀式-打掃公廁。就是她修行的一種形式。
In this remote village, there's an exceptionally clean and simple public restroom. I couldn't help but wonder how it could be so spotless. After lingering in the village for 30 minutes, I saw a grandmother, over 70 years old, dressed in an apron and wellies, arrive and begin cleaning this remote public restroom. She diligently cleans it, leaving it spotless, ensuring that pilgrims who need it can use it comfortably. I personally believe that the grandmother's work is also a form of pilgrimage. Her daily morning ritual—cleaning the public restroom—is a form of spiritual practice.
Kumano Kodo - Small Side Road - Nosakogawa Village - Map
野迫川村位於高野山和熊野本宮大社之間，是熊野古道「小邊路」上的重要據點，以其豐富的大自然和獨特的歷史文化而聞名。這個海拔約700至1,000公尺的村莊，是日本人口最少的村落之一。這裡的秋楓景色特別出名，每到秋天，山林間的樹葉轉紅，呈現出令人驚豔的色彩。野迫川村也因盛產高品質的松茸而聞名，是喜愛美食的旅人不能錯過的地方。這裡不僅是古道的休憩地，更是體驗日本鄉間靜謐之美的好去處。
Nosakogawa Village, nestled between Mount Koya and Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, is a key stop on the Kumano Kodo Trail's "Small Side Road," renowned for its abundant nature and unique history and culture. This village, situated at an altitude of approximately 700 to 1,000 meters, is one of Japan's smallest population centers. It is particularly renowned for its autumn maple blossoms, with the leaves of the mountain forest turning red in a breathtaking display of color. Nosakogawa Village is also renowned for its high-quality matsutake mushrooms, making it a must-see for food lovers. It's not only a relaxing spot along the Kodo Trail, but also a perfect place to experience the tranquil beauty of the Japanese countryside.
Kumano Kodo - Small Side Road - Nosakogawa Village - Handmade Tofu Cuisine
因為熊野古道小邊路上朝聖者絡繹不絕，所以在小邊路上的野迫川村中，有手作豆腐的精進料理，提供給朝聖者享用。
Because there are a lot of pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo Kobi Road, there is a Shojin cuisine with handmade tofu in Nosakawa Village on the Kobi Road for pilgrims to enjoy.
熊野古道-小邊路-野迫川村-手作豆腐料理
Kumano Kodo - Small Side Road - Nosakogawa Village - Handmade Tofu Cuisine
Kumano Kodo - Small Side Road - Nosakogawa Village - Handmade Tofu Cuisine
高野豆腐傳承館的老奶奶採用高野川上游水源保護區的山泉水，來製作這個手工豆腐。在用手工豆腐製作成豆腐定食。阿弘非常推薦，有來走小邊路的夥伴，一定要來品嚐一下。
The elderly woman at the Kono Tofu Heritage Museum uses spring water from the Kono River upstream water source protection area to make this handmade tofu. This tofu is then used to create a tofu set meal. Hiro highly recommends this place if you're visiting the small side roads.
圖/文 : 阿弘
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